Style Advice From Reformation's Coolest Employees

 
 

Inside the closets of L.A.'s most stylish millennial women, you'll likely find a piece (or 10!) from Reformation. From the brand's minimalist-chic store on Melrose to its feminine-yet-cool designs, it embodies our city's relaxed vibe. Plus, there's the eco-friendly ethos: All fabrics are either deadstock, recycled, or made from eco-friendly materials, and the company cuts and sews the better portion of its products in its SoCal offices.

Did we mention Reformation has a loyal Hollywood following? Think: Rihanna, Taylor Swift, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. (Oh, and Karlie Kloss is an investor, too.) And, if you need more convincing that these clothes are seriously badass, we suggest you consult the Instagram hashtag #RefBabe for hordes of girls exalting the brand's dreamy dresses, boxy leather jackets, and high-waisted vintage Levi's.

Of course, it's no surprise that such a rad company would have even radder employees, so we visited Reformation's downtown L.A. offices to chat with a few of its most stylish women. Their take on the attitude required to master the #RefBabe look, their favorite pieces and how to style them, and so much more, all ahead.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

Name: Yael Aflalo
Position: Founder

Aflalo wears Reformation Jalisco Two-Piece and Spanish mail-order espadrilles.

How long have you worked for Reformation? "Since its creation about five years ago!"

What do you do for Reformation? "I started the company as a solution to a problem: Women should be able to dress how they want without having to sacrifice our environment."

How would you describe your personal style? "Our clothes are effortless, and I think that's a reflection of my personal style. I like to feel feminine without feeling fussy."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s your favorite Ref piece, and how would you style it? "All of the Estella dresses are really beautiful, sexy, and romantic. I like to be comfortable and not overdress, so I would probably throw on a pair of Valentino flat sandals and a single earring with it."

What’s your tip for dressing like a #RefBabe? "Wear the clothes, don't let the clothes wear you."

Your closet is on fire — what five things do you save? "Chanel flats, Lanvin boots, Ref leather jacket, Ref vintage Levi's, and whichever flowing Ref dress I can grab."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s the one thing in your closet that you wear the most often, and why? "My Reformation vintage Levi's. They are effortless and classic. I can wear them to work with a white T-shirt and sandals, and just switch out the sandals for a pump and head out after work. So easy!"

What’s the best part of working for Reformation? "Making women feel beautiful while educating people on the fashion industry's impact on the environment."

Besides working for an eco-friendly clothing company, what’s one thing you do to be green? "I don't eat meat or dairy, and I really never use plastic. I also drive a Tesla."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

Name: Rochelle Spratlen
Position: E-Commerce Merchandise Manager

Spratlen wears Reformation Jessa Bodysuit, Cropped Slim Jeans, a vintage belt and jewelry, and Zara slides.

How long have you worked for Reformation? "A little over a year."

What do you do for Reformation?"I run the website! I launch new product as soon as it's ready and make sure it's running as efficiently as possible."

How would you describe your personal style? "I grew up in the '90s, so I find myself referencing that era. I constantly try to achieve a casual, cool look while keeping it functional."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What about your office style? Is it different or the same? "Same. I dress for function around the office."

What’s your favorite Ref piece, and how would you style it? "I love the Avalon Bodysuit. I missed out on the first cut but can't wait to get my hands on the reorder. And, yes, a reorder is coming! I can't wait to wear it with my high-waisted black skinnies."

What’s your tip for dressing like a #RefBabe? "Wear it with confidence, and don't try too hard."

Your closet is on fire — what five things do you save? "My new Saint Laurent cowboy boots, my leather motorcycle jacket, my vintage Judas Priest T-shirt, my vintage turquoise ring, and my new favorite Reformation piece, the Westlake Dress."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s the one thing in your closet that you wear the most often, and why? "My vintage Levi's. I wear them with everything, and they make your butt look great."

What’s the best part of working for Reformation? "I really love everyone I work with; it's such an awesome team to be a part of. Also, I love our cause and ethos. Oh, and the clothes!"

Besides working for an eco-friendly clothing company, what’s one thing you do to be green? "I really try in any way that I can, if it means bringing my eco totes to the market or using my reusable water bottles. Being part of Reformation has been a real eye-opener, and I try to pass that on to friends and family!"

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

Name: Yaoska Davila
Position: Lifestyle Buyer/Interior Designer

Yaoska wears a Zara top, Armani Shoes, vintage bracelets, and Reformation Abigail Skirt.

What do you do for Reformation?”I source handcrafted or responsibly designed accessories for our stores. Basically, I hunt for artisanal gems from all around, talking to vendors from Ghana to Italy. I am also in charge of our interior-design decisions. Currently, I'm consulting for our new retail concept store. Very excited about it!”

How would you describe your personal style? "Girl meets dude."

What about your office style? Is it different or the same? "It all depends on my work day. If I'm out sourcing or having studio visits with designers, I like to dress up. If I am at the office, I like to be comfortable because I walk up and down stairs all day. I avoid sitting at my desk all day."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s your favorite Ref piece, and how would you style it? "The Barry Jacket. It’s a denim kimono that’s perfect to pair with jeans or wear to the beach.”

What’s your tip for dressing like a #RefBabe? "The devil may care sometimes."

Your closet is on fire — what five things do you save? "Everything I bought in the early 2000s: my first designer bag by Bernhard Willhelm, kangaroo boots by Maison Martin Margiela, Vivienne Westwood bondage boots, Hermès bracelet my best friend gave me, and a vintage suede cape."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s the one thing in your closet that you wear the most often, and why? "Sunglasses! I live in L.A., and I am obsessed with unique sunglasses."

What’s the best part of working for Reformation? "My role in this company is the best part. Every day, I search for beautiful things that are made ethically and with style."

Besides working for an eco-friendly clothing company, what’s one thing you do to be green? "I avoid purchasing crap whenever I can. I like to think of myself as a conscious consumer."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

Name: Machiko Yasuda
Position: Junior Software Engineer

Yasuda wears Reformation Leela Jumpsuit and Zara booties.

How long have you worked for Reformation? "Five months."

What do you do for Reformation?"I work on the engineering team, which means I am constantly trying to make the website as fast, fun, and beautiful as possible. Every day, I write code to keep our apps up and running, add new features, and squash bugs. Basically, I type a lot of stuff and pretend to buy clothes online all day."

How would you describe your personal style? "Minimalist, bold, and functional. I'm all about shorts, dresses, and jumpsuits with pockets — anything that I can easily move, bike, and run around in."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s your favorite Ref piece, and how would you style it? "The Maggie Dress with a sun hat and Greek sandals."

What’s your tip for dressing like a #RefBabe? "Embrace the plunging neckline — it's totally okay to ditch the bra sometimes."

Your closet is on fire — what five things do you save? "I would save my Reformation lace top from last year, vintage Patagonia pullover, black Bidlake wool-blend tank top, this ridiculously big infinity scarf, and these Nike running shorts from 10th grade."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s the one thing in your closet that you wear the most often, and why? "I wear Outlier's black women's daily riding pant all the time. The fabric is tough, and the design is super-comfortable. It's perfect for traveling, biking, work, and pretty much everything."

What’s the best part of working for Reformation? "I love working at a company that is serious about making a change in the fashion industry, and doing it in a fun, honest, and inviting way that stands out from everyone else."

Besides working for an eco-friendly clothing company, what’s one thing you do to be green? "I take the subway, bus, bike, or walk as often as I can."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

Name: Hali Borenstein
Position: Director of Merchandising

Borenstein wears Reformation Joslyn Dress and Spanish mail-order espadrilles.

What do you do for Reformation?"I am focused on making the best product possible for our customers. My team manages the creative decisions on what we are offering, and then how much of it we are making."

How would you describe your personal style? "I am a mixed bag; I like to change my style based on the day. Overall, I would say I focus on classic pieces that last across seasons."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

What’s your favorite Ref piece, and how would you style it? "Right now, I am wearing The Reformation Joslyn Dress a lot. With a pregnant belly, it's the perfect way to be comfortable and still cute."

What’s your tip for dressing like a #RefBabe? "We focus on making clothing that makes you feel beautiful and fits well. I think it's always important to be comfortable in what you are wearing and feel like your best self."

Your closet is on fire — what five things do you save?
"My vintage leather jacket, my everyday classic blazer, my favorite jeans, the perfect white tee, and my wedding dress (nostalgia)."

How has your style changed while being pregnant? "Comfort is key right now. Anything too tight does not work."

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORTES.

Can you share a few tips for maintaining your personal style during pregnancy?
"I still like to wear my favorite accessories and layering pieces, so I am not completely giving up my style. Shoes, jewelry, jackets, etc. are still fair game!"

What's one thing you wear now you never thought you would love?
"Elastic-waisted denim! I used to think they were just for older people, and now I can't go anywhere without them."

Besides working for an eco-friendly clothing company, what’s one thing you do to be green?
"I am in the process of buying my first home right now, and as part of the process, my husband and I are looking at purchasing solar panels for our roof. We are still in the beginning phases, but we are excited about the prospect."

 

Meet Instagram's Most Controversial New Makeup Artist

 
 
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

In real life, we apply our lipstick within the lines. Maybe we'll attempt an "artfully smudged" look, if we're feeling informal and kinda pouty. But a new lip trend is making us rethink those limits — by totally obscuring them with color and shine. The dripping, drenched effect isn't the work of Kylie Jenner, like you might expect. It's 31-year-old Los Angeles makeup artist Vlada Haggerty whom we have to thank for the pillowy, provocative style. But she's so much more than a dripping lip...

Haggerty grew up playing with her mom's makeup in Kiev, Ukraine. In fact, breaking into her mother's cosmetic bag and surprising her (not in a good way) with a face covered in red blush is her earliest memory. After spending years doing her friends' faces and wading through unfulfilling office jobs, Haggerty decided to follow her instincts and enroll in cosmetology school. Then, she headed west.

Arriving in the Bay Area of Northern California, Haggerty landed wedding gigs and a stint at Sephora, but it wasn't until she migrated to L.A. with her husband that it all came together. That's when she devoted herself to macro beauty photography — tight crops of detailed work, screaming with color and texture on screen.

Using a Canon 7D, a soft box, and a beauty dish, Haggerty started experimenting in her apartment. "I never thought it would go somewhere; I was just having fun," she says. The breakthrough: Haggerty began posting her work to Instagram, at least once a day for five months, and it took off like wildfire. "It’s such an amazing platform that's given me so many opportunities," she says. "Of course, it also has its problems. But that comes with the territory."

Haggerty isn't kidding. Nor is she afraid to speak her mind about her work, and the work of other makeup artists that's circulated without permission or credit. The question of creative ownership — and the rampant failure to respect it — has manifested as a watermark on Haggerty's images, something she sees as an eyesore. "I hate watermarks, and honestly, I shouldn't have to use them," she says.

Her push to validate her photography has brought out some haters, more than a few trolls, and lots of hurtful comments. It seems that the cerebral question, "What is art?" can inspire some pretty lowbrow remarks. But Haggerty's handiwork tapped right into our beauty-loving brains (and all the rosy thoughts in them), so we visited her studio.

There's no shortage of jaw-dropping macro looks on Haggerty's Instagram, so when we teamed up on an L.A. beauty shoot, we took a slightly different approach. Fret not, her infamous rose-gold drip lip is represented, but expect to see it, and four more looks, in a different light. Ahead, you'll view Haggerty's work through a different lens, slightly pulled back — but just as experimental.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

The Fade

There's a trick to Haggerty's take on the ombré trend — by far the most wearable look from our shoot. "I prepped the lip with concealer," she says. "Just dab it all over the lip, but don't powder it." This creates a canvas that helps your lip color adhere better.

Next came a deep-burgundy shade that Haggerty applied with a fluffy eyeshadow brush to the center of the lips. "Blend it out to the edges, over the concealer," she says. While they're beautiful when matte — and far more practical for real life — topping the lips with gloss is an @VladaMUA signature. "Gloss makes every beauty editorial better," Haggerty jokes.

Melt Cosmetics Lipstick In Dark Room, $19, available at Melt Cosmetics; My Kit Co. My Defining Crease Brush 1.3, $25.01, available at My Kit Co; Theory Brixmill Admiral Crepe Blazer, $445, available at Bloomingdale's.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

No surprise here: Haggerty is a liquid-lipstick devotee, but her favorite brand may not be one you've tried. "Jeffree Star's lipsticks are crazy-pigmented, and you can get a super-sharp line if you use a thin, angled brush," she says. Which also saves her time. "I like to make my work as perfect as possible, so I don’t have to spend a lot of time retouching," she says.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Haggerty's kit is stocked with every gloss you could ever need, from thin and liquid-y (perfect for drips, which you'll see ahead) to thick with a high-shine finish, like she used here.

For the final step, Haggerty topped model Ella's lips with a single coat of Mehron Glosstone in Clear, a theatrical-makeup brand you'll see used more than once in this story. "It stays put and creates a great vinyl finish," she says.

Mehron Glosstone Pro in Clear, $11.95, available at Mehron.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Blue Steel

For this look, Haggerty channeled a macro trend that's splashed all over social media: a colorful splatter that's part Jackson Pollock, part graffiti art. And while it may appear to have been thrown together, it's actually quite precise.

While the coat of blue Jeffree Star Cosmetics Lipstick in Jawbreaker is stunning on its own, the tiny dabs and smears of various colors really ramp up the effect.

Just before shooting the look, Haggerty layered a deep blue called Blue Velvet on the corners of Ella's mouth for depth, while the swipe of blue on her lids was a creative impulse halfway through the shoot. "Gives it a little something," Haggerty says. It does, indeed.

Jeffree Star Cosmetics Velour Liquid Lipstick in Blue Velvet, Jawbreaker, and Breakfast at Tiffany's, $18, available at Jeffree Star Cosmetics; Nyx Liquid Suede Lipstick in Tea and Cookies, $7, available at Nyx Cosmetics; Nyx White Liquid Liner, $7, available at Nyx Cosmetics; COS Draped Layer Dress, $125, available at COS; Lizzie Mandler Petit Square Huggies, $625, available at Lizzie Mandler.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

The Signature Drip

Haggerty knew she was on to something as soon as she snapped one of her most popular looks. "I thought it would get me a lot of likes, but I didn't think there would be drama," she tells us.

Don't get her wrong: Haggerty loves to see her work shared in any capacity — but with the proper credit. Not much to ask when you consider the time and effort it takes to style just one of these shoots.

This look starts simply — just Mehron metallic pigment and inexpensive lip gloss, since it tends to be thinner and better at dripping, Haggerty says. The technique, however, is all about timing.

"When I put it on it looks uneven and goopy, but if you leave it alone it will settle," she says. On set, Haggerty applied a thick layer in the makeup chair, then really gobbed it on once Ella got in front of the camera. "I use excessive amounts just to make that super-liquid metal look," she says. Then, it's a game of luck — and catching the product before it hits your shirt.

Sally Girl Mini Squeeze Tube Lip Gloss Minty Fresh, $.99, available at Sally Beauty; Mehron Metallic Powder in Copper, $9.95, available at Mehron; Camilla and Marc Inhale Top, $299, available at Camilla and Marc; Tiffany Kunz Ball Stud, $110, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Medium Balance Ring, $720, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Balance Bangle, $1,440, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Bracelet 5, $87, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Balance 3, $87, available at Tiffany Kunz.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

"At first, people thought it was strange, and it is kind of strange," Haggerty admits. "But there is something about capturing that frozen moment that you can keep forever."

Amid the praise, Haggerty is quick to say that she is not the creator of the dripping-lip editorial look. "It’s not my contribution," she says. "People have done it before. My original inspiration to do lip art came from a British makeup artist named Karla Powell."

But Haggerty has definitely put her own spin on everything, and she isn't stopping at a drip. Lately, she's been experimenting with other metallic mixtures to get different effects.

This gold rendition, for example, is not the result of garden-variety ingredients. "It's actually pigment mixed with a cucumber mask," she says. "You know, the kind that comes in the pouches." It did not, however, peel off to reveal smoother lips. "It just kind of crumbed and flaked off," she says with a laugh.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Two-Sided

This glitter lip is the only one that Haggerty's ever worn out on the town. In fact, she doesn't wear much makeup. "I think that's because I get my creative fix with my art," she says.

To create this high-shine, glitter effect, Haggerty first applied a coat of matte lipstick from Nyx. Then, she pressed on a bit of glitter with her finger while the formula was still tacky. "I've tried to do it with a lip brush or a shadow brush, but it flakes away," she says. A coat of NARS gloss on the bottom lip tops things off.

Nyx Liquid Suede Lipstick in Vintage, $7, available at Nyx Cosmetics; NARSLarger Than Life Lip Gloss in Rouge Tribal, $26, available at NARS; Graftobian Powdered Glitter in Goth Garnet, $5.49, available at Graftobian; French Connection Whisper Light Fitted Dress, $198, available at Bloomingdale's; Tiffany Kunz Petite Origin Studs, $260, available at Tiffany Kunz.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

In the Wild West of beauty editorials — i.e. Instagram — the question eventually arises: What is stealing, and what can be called inspiration?

It's a sensitive subject for Haggerty, who has been bullied online for calling out celebs who post her work without credit, most recently Britney Spears. "All I got from that was a lot of really, really hateful people on my page," Haggerty says. "Grown adults calling me the 'c' word and saying I was ungrateful; it was shocking."

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Crystal City

Haggerty's work often features nail decals and crystals, which she affixes with eyelash glue after a coat of matte lipstick. "I have no patience for tweezers," she says. Instead, she puts a dab of Embellie Gellie, which you can find at a craft store, on the end of a makeup brush (not the bristle side), picks up the decal or stone, and places it on the lip.

Haggerty notes that it isn't impossible to leave the house with a Swarovski pout (though it's perhaps even less wearable than a glitter top lip). "Although it would be super-inconvenient to talk, or eat, or smile, or function in general," she jokes. "Minor details!"

Anastasia Beverly Hills Liquid Lipstick in Blush and Pure Hollywood, $20, available at Anastasia Beverly Hills; Mehron Glosstone Pro in Coral Reef, $11.95, available at Mehron.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Our final question was one we couldn't help but think about all day: Does it feel liberating or crushing to wipe away all that good work after you get the shot? Luckily for us, Haggerty has spent just as much time thinking about this. "It’s so satisfying to wipe it off," she immediately fires back. "Shooting is hard. If you close your mouth, it’s going to ruin everything. So as much as you're thinking, Oh, check me out, you cannot wait to wipe it off."

Maje dress.

 

How To Style L.A.'s Most Popular Haircut 3 Ways In 3 Days

 
 
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY CRANNA.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY CRANNA.

Ladies with slightly messy waves are everywhere you turn in this city. It makes sense; it's a perfect look for summer, and it practically feels like summer year-round in L.A. If there's one cut that truly epitomizes this ubiquitous style, it's the delightfully bedheady, and slightly beachy long bob made famous by one of our city's raddest hairstylists, Anh Co Tran.

You've probably seen Tran's work on Instagram, Pinterest, and pretty much all over the web. If you're like us, you've been left with one resounding question:How do I score this look at home? To find out, we spent a day with Tran at his beautiful L.A. salon, Ramirez/Tran, to learn all of the celeb stylist's favorite tips and tricks. The best part? The textured waves you'll create here can become a base for Day Two and Day Three styles that are just as appealing — without ever lathering up!

Lending her enviable head of hair for this how-to demonstration is one of the first adopters of the cut, Alaina Etue. An L.A. It Girl in her own right, as the aesthetic director for Genetic Denim, Etue is the brains behind the brand's shoots, styling, and even some of its designs.

Before we proceed with this tutorial, there's one caveat: You really do need a choppy long bob to pull off these looks. (If you're updating your 'do, ask your hairstylist to go slightly shorter in back, with a soft undercut and lots of shaggy layers.) Thick hair? Cool. Curly locks? No problem. Just follow our suggested tweaks throughout!

Bookmark this page and get your product shopping list ready, because this may just be the coolest, easiest hair routine, ever.

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Day 1: Lived-In Texture

Start with clean, straight, dry hair. If you have fine, thick, curly, or coarse locks, you'll need to blow your hair out before you begin. Add in a dollop of mousse to boost volume if your hair is fine, or your go-to serum or oil for a smoother blowout on curly or coarse tresses.

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Grab a 1.5-inch curling iron, like the Hot Tools Big Bumper Curling Iron. (You can also use a wand, like John Frieda's Wavy Curls Iron, which Tran notes is easier for beginners to maneuver.) The goal is to create loose ringlets, without curling the roots or the ends of the hair. To do so, divide your locks into 1-inch sections and curl your hair in alternating directions without clamping down on the ends. (If you're using a wand, simply wrap your hair around the iron and hold the ends with your fingers.)

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Continue to curl 1-inch sections all over your head, allowing the strands to cool without disrupting them. Again, be sure that the ends of your hair are not touched by the heat, which will make the look far too polished. (Notice Tran has left the tips of Alaina 's hair out of his iron's clamp.)

Allow all your curls to cool fully before moving onto the next step.

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Grab a can of texturizing spray or dry shampoo — Tran prefers Oribe's Dry Texture Spray — and blast the roots of your hair, holding the spray 12 inches away from your head. Go section by section, and slowly layer the spray into your locks, avoiding the ends.

If your hair is processed, dry, or naturally curly, you'll benefit from a texture spray with a touch of nourishing oil instead, like Oribe's Apres Beach Spray. Simply swap it in and follow the steps above.

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Next, shake out the curls! Using your hands, go in and gently massage your roots and scrunch the length of hair, to muss the curl patterns and make them look effortless.

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Warm a dime-sized amount of styling cream — Tran swears by Leonor Greyl's Eclat Naturel — between your palms like you would a hand cream, then finger comb your hair back into place. (This technique thins out the product perfectly.) Smooth the ends with any leftover product to keep them frizz-free and smooth.

Hair that is naturally curly can also benefit from a heavy misting of anti-humidity hairspray, like Garnier Fructis Style Anti-Humidity Hairspray.

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And, you're done! But, don't you dare wash your hair tomorrow! Try our next style instead...

Alaina is wearing M.A.C. Lipstick in Ruby Woo.

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Day 2: The ‘90s Swoop

You can create a rad deep side parting and smooth braid on Day Two hair. Or, if you're working on clean hair, simply start with our Day One routine, then move on to this style. If your hair got limp or frizzy overnight, just mist it with water and spot treat with a brush and blowdryer.

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To begin, lift random sections of your hair and mist with your dry texture spray from slide 3. This soaks up oil and adds fullness and texture.

For even more volume, simply follow this tip from Tran: Massage your roots with a Tangle Teezer comb before and after adding product to build body.

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Create a deep side part, then braid a 2-inch section on the part side into a small, tight braid. You can adjust the size of this braid depending on the thickness of your hair. It will look slightly different for everyone.

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Use a fine-tooth comb to tease the ends of your braid. This will hold the plait in place without an elastic.

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Use two bobby pins to secure your hair by adding one over the end of the braid, then adding a second over the first pin to make an X shape. If you have fine hair, simply mist your bobby pins with hairspray for a firmer hold.

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Now, wasn't that easy?! But, you're not done yet. Your Day Three hair how-to is next!

Alaina is wearing M.A.C. Lipstick in Diva.

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Day 3: Twisted Knots

Dirty, greasy, or just plain limp hair can be easily twisted into cool mini-buns that work as well on a Sunday afternoon as they do a with a black-tie dress. Of course, you can do this on clean hair, too, just build your base using the steps from Day One.

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To begin, brush your hair with a boar or nylon brush to distribute any hair oils and leftover product through the hair. Tran uses Mason Pearson's Handy Mixture Brush, or try Sonia Kashuk's Hair Brush for a similar finish.

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Next, back brush your hair to give the strands more grip. Use a light touch and work slowly to avoid knots and snarls.

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Finger comb any tangles away, then blast your hair with more dry texture spray or dry shampoo for added volume and grip.

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Section your hair into four parts: two in the back and two in the front. Don't worry about the parts being perfect, you won't see them at the end. Twist your first section into a small bun an inch or two above the nape of your neck, stopping to drive a bobby pin into the bun after every rotation. Once you finish, add more pins to lock your bun in place.

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Repeat on the next section, creating a bun right next to the first one.

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Now, on to the front. Lightly twist the first front section backward, hold it halfway between your ear and the first bun, and pin in place. Pinning before twisting allows you to keep the front loose and relaxed, and the bun snug and in place.

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Now, twist your hair into a bun, pinning as you go for a secure finish.

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It's okay if your bun is messy — it shouldn't look perfect!

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Repeat on the other side...

Pull out any short layers in the front to frame your face.

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And, you're done! Here is the view of your chic mini-buns from the back...

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..and the front!

Alaina is wearing M.A.C. Lipstick in Diva patted on with her finger for a light, stained finish. And, in case you were wondering, Anja Burton at the Ramirez/Tran salon is the stylist behind Alaina's hair color.


 

Is Hollywood's "Sci-Fi Bob" Trend A Nod To The Future Of Feminism?

 
 
PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

Kim, Chrissy, Selena, Bella — it seems as if every Hollywood "It girl" has turned into a clone of the last over the past few months, debuting nearly identical blunt bobs in quick succession. It seems odd, since being unique is a major key to maintaining stardom (and no one wants a new cut to match the woman dating their ex), so how the hell did this happen? Turns out, it might go deeper than just what's en vogue.

The look is perfectly timed for our uncertain political climate: a cut that feels sharp and strong, with a futuristic finish that's as no-BS as it gets. Is it a nod to feminism? The anti-damsel in distress? For those of the belief that life imitates art, it's both.

In La La Land, character archetypes abound. The woman with long, soft waves gently tucked behind one ear? She deserves the leading man. Big, frizzy curls? Someone get that woman a makeover! (Just how problematic this all is is a whole other story.) So what does a sharp bob convey to Hollywood insiders? To start, they call it a "sci-fi bob."

This beauty trope says you're sharp and smooth, and it's often paired with short bangs to create a helmet-like shield of strength. It's used to depict a futuristic woman who is strong, powerful, and has reached gender equality — or is fervently fighting for it. Some believe that popular culture has programmed us to think of this style as progressive, rebellious, and ready for anything, even zero gravity. Think: The Fifth Element, Star Trek, and Aeon Flux. The stylists who are doling out these styles for the A-listers off-screen didn't disagree, either, when we asked them to weigh in on the trend.

Ahead, everything you need to know about Hollywood's subtle, but powerful, resistance cut.

The Haircut

“For years, there was a Victoria's Secret, 'pretty girl' hair thing, but in some ways that is shifting," says Jon Reyman, editorial hairstylist and co-owner of Spoke & Weal salons. "Women are having really strong, empowered conversations. I think it's about self-expression. I think there's a punk side to all of this, like a 'fuck you, damn the man' kind of thing, which I like."

For Reyman, it's been a long time coming."There was a period where people were trying to do this a couple years ago, but it didn't really take," he says. "Normally, I like movement, texture, and softness, but I think this one-length bob is right on for right now." His followers agree: His posts average a few hundred likes; this one got over 1,700.

As for the cut, all our experts like something a bit different. Reyman prefers a slight A-line (shorter in back than front) that's totally blunt. And whatever you do, don't pick up a curling iron, or you'll ruin the look. "Either straight or natural is the way," he says. "Less is more."

Another of our favorites — which we've raved about before — comes from L.A. hairstylist Sal Salcedo. He turns out gorgeous cuts daily, but it's this chop that he calls a favorite for the exact reasons we love it, too. In fact, he's very passionate about the role hair can play in equality.

"More than anything, it's a sign of empowerment and freedom," Salcedo says about the current short chop trend sweeping L.A. "Women are taking charge of the way their roles are being set and also changing the expectations from society. Machismo has been imposed unconsciously, and so naturally, without us even realizing it. It's time for change — and I'm all about it!"

For him, shaping trends has been a chance to even things up, if only on the head. "My goal is to make guy's hair longer and girl's hair shorter to bring about equality and erase the stigma of roles," he adds."Hair is our connection to society and with it, we let society know what we think." He sees it as mirroring a past era steeped in change: "I've been comparing this trend to the roaring twenties," he continues. "More and more woman are changing the perception of what women's hair should be like. Slowly but surely, we are showing the world that we are all equal."

As for the cut, ask for a short A-line with invisible layers only if needed. The trick to the bang is simple: "The fringe should be above the eyebrows and get slightly longer at the temples so that it blends right into the length."

Justine Marjan got her start under Jen Atkin, so it's no wonder she's become a major fan of the chop. (Atkin's given the cut to half her client roster, which you'll see ahead.) She gave this pristine version to former Miss Universe Olivia Culpo.

To score the cut, ask for blunt bob that's "below the chin and jawline, but above the shoulders with a very clean, blunt finish," she says. "For the most flattering finish, the angle of the bob should be similar to the angle of your jawline and the length will depend on your face shape." Bonus? "The blunt ends make the hair look healthier and fuller," she adds.

Now, you may be feeling the fire of feminism, but ease in when it comes to expressing it on your head if you're making a big change. "Make sure you go to a stylist you trust to take your hair short and always start longer," she says. "It’s better to gradually take your hair short to a length you know you’ll love than to go too short and regret it."

Keep clicking for a look at the celebs rocking the sci-fi cut right now, then tell us what you think in the comment section below.

The latest star to get the chop is Nina Dobrev, who debuted the textbook sci-fi cut on hairstylist Riawna Capri's Instagram.

PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

Selena Gomez's cut is one of the longest of the bunch, paired with killer shine and a dramatic A-line for the Met Gala this spring.

Kerry Washington makes a case for adding bends and waves.

Bella Hadid's been wearing her new sci-fi bob a variety of ways, proving there's no shortage of inspiring ways to get futuristic.

So smooth, we thought it had to be a wig. Get it, Kim Kardashian.

Sharp and slicked back, we can't think of a more badass way for Serena Williams to wear her blunt bob.

The sci-fi bob is normally worn straight, but don't get it twisted: There are no rules. Take your cue from Olivia Munn and sport it textured and messy, too.

Prefer to ease in? Follow Chrissy Teigen's lead and go a little longer at first to avoid an oh, shit! moment. Paired with a dramatic A-line, this long lob gives the illusion of a shorter length.

Hairstylist Riawna Capri gave Nina Dobrev this chop months ago — and we still love it.

A sharp side part is giving Vanessa Hudgen's new cut major life.

You already knew that Taraji P. Henson can do no wrong.


 

"Daith" Piercings Are L.A.'s Most Surprising Beauty Trend

 
 
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“If you’re only going to have three piercings right now, I would do your lobes, your tragus, and your daith,” L.A.’s "It" piercer Brian Keith Thompson told me on the phone this week. “The daith is really popular right now — and [they] look cool all together.”

And if this piercing oracle says it's true, you better believe it. The Body Electric owner/artist is responsible for constellation piercings, L.A.’s obsession with nipple adornment, and even the latest uptick in the labret (the center of the bottom lip) and the philtrum (he just did FKA Twigs’, but more on that later. Did we mention his client list is stacked with major A-listers?)

So, what are the raddest piercings you need to know about for 2017? When it comes to ears, the daith, rook, forward helix, and tragus are in hot demand — often in artful groupings of three or more. Facial piercing trends are shifting too, with lip piercings becoming more popular and the nostril slowly usurping the septum. (There's a sentence we never thought we'd write.)

As for body? Feel free to blame Beyoncé for this next one. “There was a lull, but we are seeing the navel come back even stronger now,” Thompson says. “Very delicate, thin, dainty rings are big.” No surprise here: The nipple is still huge, too: “I thought that it was going to die down, but I can’t keep barbells in stock right now!” he reports.

Ahead, Thompson walks us through the piercings and combinations that L.A.’s loving.

Behold: The daith. According to Thompson, it’s having a huge moment in L.A. — and for good reason. Not only does it feel incredibly cool and fresh, but because it's tucked further into your ear than the helix (and less prone to bumping or jostling), many find that it heals better.

“A tragus and a daith look so good together,” Thompson says about his current favorite combo. Here, his client sports multiple lobe piercings featuring the duo.

Thompson notes that regardless of trends, it's important to find a look that works for you. Here, a helix is accented with a rook, a placement right above the daith. (Does anyone else feel like they're playing chess RN?)

His only rule? "You don’t want to do a daith and rook, or either of those with a conch, because it gets a little crowded."

Here, the daith is paired with four lobe piercings to create an eclectic look.

“Constellation piercings are still very big right now,” Thompson told us. Personally, he prefers groupings of three, like these two helix piercings and lobe. (See tons of rad constellation piercings here.)

This look shows how easy it is to incorporate multiple small piercings onto your ear without any overcrowding. The secret? Keep all the jewelry dainty.

Hoops are far more popular than studs right now. “[Hoops] are flying off the shelves,” Thompson says. “I have girls coming in and doing hoops all the way up their ears.”

It's really popular for people to wear a few tiny hoops in their upper-ear cartilage piercings and small studs up the lobe.

The forward helix is also big right now, and looks incredibly cool when paired with just the lobe or outer helix, he says

“It's crazy how popular the nipple is right now,” Thompson says. “Last night, for example, I did a group of three girls — it’s still a big thing.”

Thanks to the growing popularity of multiple piercings, people are becoming far more educated on how many are possible in each sitting. “People now understand they shouldn’t be getting five or six piercings at one time," he says. His best advice? “Do a couple, let them heal, then come back — it’s far easier to heal three piercings than seven.”

“A stud in the nostril is more popular among those that work in a professional environment, while hoops are a little more artistic," Thompson says, adding that hoops are far more popular for those doing several piercings. “I am seeing a lot of people pairing them up, doing multiples or one on each side," he says.

“I just did a really cool conch with a little baguette from [jewelry designer] Maria Tash,” Thompson says about this piercing. “Hoops are definitely more popular for the conch, but studs are big, too.”

Suspender earrings are also having a moment, and Thompson loves the ones from jewelry designer Smith & Mara.

Thompson always gravitates towards piercings in numerals of three, like this simple helix, lobe, and tragus trio.

FKA Twigs recently flew from London to L.A. just for Thompson to pierce her philtrum. “She said, ‘I can’t believe I came all the way from London just to do this’,” he says with a laugh. Of course, we understand why — the facial piercing had to be perfect.

While this trend might not be for everyone, Thompson predicts that it will have a huge moment this year. Think of it as the cool new Marilyn lip piercing.

“I love the septum on girls, because you can hide it,” Thompson says. “If you’re going to go see Grandma, you can just tuck that shit up."

Here, Bella Thorne shows off the septum piercing — just one of many piercings that she’s gotten from Thompson.

Introducing: the two new facial piercing trends collide in this simple, chic look.

Fair warning from Thompson: The labret trend is not for everyone. “She looks like a badass with it, but it takes a definite type of style to pull it off. And it's tough to heal,” Thompson says. “It’s right in the center of your lip and you’re talking, you’re eating — there is a lot going on and you need to be patient.”

Pro tip: You can get a similar effect with gold liquid liner before you commit

Finally, a chic new way to cover up old gauge holes.

Way cooler than the pant chains people used to wear in high school...

When everyone else opts for a cuff or hoop, go for the stud.

Want more piercing inspiration and tips from Thompson — including how to make your new holes heal faster? Right this way.

 

Everything You Need To Know About Micro-Needling

 
 
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Fun fact: The most effective anti-aging treatments rarely come with affordable price tags. The current in-office gold standards — laser treatments, injectables, Thermage — are costly, and even a trip to your aesthetician for something like an acid peel or microdermabrasion can hit your bank account hard. Well, what if there were something that could both stimulate change in the skin and make the products you splurge on work even better? And what if we told you that you could use it at home?

You may have heard of micro-needlingand wondered what all the fuss is about. But unlike many skin-care fads, this one is seemingly lasting the test of time — 15 years and counting — and for good reasons.

Intrigued? We are, too. For guidance on the subject, we consulted two pros — board-certified dermatologist Karyn Grossman, MD, whose patients include Gwyneth Paltrow, Molly Sims, and Linda Evangelista; and Kerry Benjamin, Hollywood aesthetician and creator of her own line of products and tools, Stacked Skincare, which includes one of the only aesthetician-created dermarollers.

Ahead, everything you need to know to determine whether micro-needling is right for you.

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So what, exactly, is micro-needling? Also referred to as dermarolling, this is a treatment that can be done at home, by an aesthetician, or in your dermatologist's office. It gets its name from the tool used, a dermaroller, which looks a bit like a miniature paint roller, except it's covered with tiny needles.

Before you freak out, know that the needles on the at-home devices shouldn't be painful, since they're much smaller than those used in a derm's office. (But more on that later.) Micro-needling has been around since the early 2000s, and works on a similar principle as laser treatments.

When rolled over the skin, the dermaroller does two things. First, it allows for better penetration of products, thanks to tiny pinpricks that work almost like canals, allowing your products — often serums, since they're the most viscous — to reach deeper into the skin. Second, it creates micro-injuries, which tell your brain to kick into repair mode. This prompts your body to send collagen to the epidermis, which, as you probably already know, is an important building block of healthy, radiant skin. More collagen, better skin.

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You may have read online that dermarolling can magically cure acne scars, fine lines, and brown spots — and even stretch marks and cellulite. There is some truth to this, however, it's important to understand that the benefits you can realistically expect to achieve depend upon the size of the needles on your roller, Dr. Grossman explains.

Dermarollers used at home or in an aesthetician's office are normally between .2 and 1 mm. They help to even skin texture and pigmentation — but don't expect much change in scars. "[Personally], I don’t think that home micro-needling will get rid of your acne scars or stretch marks," Dr. Grossman says.

The biggest benefit of at-home rolling is simple: The deeper a product can get into the skin, the more effective it can be. The science on rollers under 1 mm is lacking, Dr. Grossman reminds us, but many aestheticians swear by the efficacy of shorter needles.

In fact, Benjamin calls at-home dermarolling one of the "most powerful and effective ways to stop early signs of aging and prevent new fine lines and wrinkles from occurring," thanks to the uptick in collagen production. She adds it to nearly every facial she gives, and sends her clients home with a roller of their own to use with their favorite serums.

"With the right corrective serums, micro-needling will brighten your skin to create a dewy, youthful glow that you just can’t get from products [alone]," Benjamin says. "If you are going to purchase serums, you should definitely micro-needle at home [to make them more effective]."

Dermarollers used in a dermatologist's office take results to the next level. Since the needles can be as long as 3mm, you can expect the above results, plus improvement in acne scars, stretch marks, and fine lines. To wit: In a 2009 study, nearly 100% of people studied saw marked improvement in their acne-scarring after several professional treatments using a 1.5-mm roller.

But cellulite? Don't hold your breath. "I have people ask about [micro-needling] for cellulite, but cellulite is a much deeper issue than you’re going to be able to address [with this tool]," Dr. Grossman says.

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Like with all things in life, there are risks. The first thing to know is that you should absolutely, positively, never use this tool on skin that is irritated, inflamed, has active eczema, or — and this is the big one — is broken out.

"Never roll over any active acne — ever!" Benjamin warns. "You can spread bacteria around your face and cause serious health issues. If you have a pimple, be sure to avoid that area completely, and if you have active acne or cystic acne, I don’t recommend micro-needling until your acne is 100% clear." Rolling over acne also increases your risks of a major infection, Dr. Grossman adds.

There are temporary annoyances, too. "Those with sensitive skin can become red or flushed," Dr. Grossman notes. "And those who don't tolerate products well need to be very careful, because you’re causing inflammation in the skin, you’re disrupting the barrier, and you’re increasing penetration of products."

You may be asking yourself, Wait, I thought I wanted better product penetration? You do, but when active ingredients go deeper into skin, the risk of irritation goes up, which is why Dr. Grossman insists on a patch test of all products you wish to apply after micro-needling. But we'll explain that later.

And, while this seems like good common sense, never ever share your roller, even if it's clean — or expect these risks to go way, way up.

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The next question you may be asking yourself: How often should I micro-needle? The answer to this isn't black and white; it has a bit to do with how your skin tolerates it, how long the needles are, and what other skin treatments you're doing regularly. But in general, our experts recommend somewhere between once weekly and a few times a week.

"I tell patients that if you want to uptick their maintenance at home — and I have patients that like to be highly maintained — I would recommend doing it once a week," Dr. Grossman says, noting that you can go up to a 1-mm needle size if you limit the treatment to once weekly. "Because again, what do the micro-needles do? At those levels, they make very small injuries in the skin, which certainly allows increased penetration of products. But you also need to be careful, because what goes along with the increased penetration of many products? Increased irritation and inflammation."

When using a home roller with needles that are on the longer side of the at-home spectrum, Dr. Grossman recommends alternating it with other treatments. You'll have to pick between peels, dermarolling, and exfoliation — not all three!

Benjamin, on the other hand, prefers a shorter needle, used more frequently, and even done after other treatments, like peels. "I recommend .2-mm rollers for home use. They are super-safe, yet still highly effective," she says. "Using this size roller, I recommend rolling three to five times a week to get the maximum benefit."

As a general note, the smaller the needle size, the better your skin can tolerate the treatment. However, Dr. Grossman reminds us again not to overdo it. Stick to one weekly treatment until you know how your skin reacts, and only dermaroll at night, to cut down on environmental (cold, heat, sun) and product (SPF, makeup) stressors that could unintentionally irritate your skin further.

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So you made it to slide five, which means you're still curious, or totally ready to give it a go — let's pick your roller of choice.

To start slowly (which we recommend), simply heed Benjamin's advice and pick a roller with .2-mm needles, like the oneshe uses on her own clients. For something that will penetrate a little deeper, try a .5-mm roller, and eventually you can graduate to a 1-mm size.

When using a roller a few times a week, Benjamin suggests tossing it out and replacing it every month; less frequently used rollers will last longer. "They're like razors and they dull, so they need to be discarded [regularly] as you could damage your skin with the dull needles," she says.

It's also important to note that the .2-mm size feels uncomfortable, but not painful, while the 1-mm is considered painful by some people; .5 mm is somewhere in the middle.

Now that you have your roller picked out, let's discuss the best way to use it.

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Before you begin, wash your hands and face, and dry both using a clean towel. Next, clean your roller with at least 91% isopropyl alcohol (standard drugstore rubbing alcohol) by submerging it in alcohol, then rinsing.

Benjamin tells her clients to divide their faces into sections: the cheeks, chin, and left and right sides of the forehead. (You can do the neck and hands, too, but make sure you wash them first.) Work on one section at a time. The forehead is the most sensitive, so let's start there to get it out of the way.

Using very light pressure, roll horizontally over your forehead going in even strokes and only going over the same section of skin two to three times at most.

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Repeat on the same section, rolling vertically this time — and, again, remember to only go over the same section two to three times at most.

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Finally, repeat on that same section diagonally, like in the illustration here. Once the forehead is done, move on to the next section. Avoid the eyes since that skin is more delicate, and the nose, since you should only be rolling over flat surfaces.

Now it's time for Dr. Grossman's strongly recommended patch test: Select the serum that you'd like to use, and apply it on a nickel-sized area on your forehead or cheek. Wait 24 hours. If your skin doesn't react, you can apply all over your face the next time you use the roller.

Benjamin also likes to apply serum before rolling, but be sure you do a patch test of any new serum you want to apply before diving in, whether before or after your treatment. Dr. Grossman recommends looking for ingredients that are active, but not inherently irritating, like peptides, growth factors, or antioxidants, such as her favorite, SkinCeuticals' C E Ferulic.

Dr. Grossman notes that super-hydrating hyaluronic acid is also something to consider: "Hyaluronic acid has large molecules, so it's difficult [to get it to] penetrate, so this is a good way to aid that," she says. Benjamin also recommends these ingredients, and sends her clients home with her own hyaluronic acid and peptide formulas.

Then comes your face cream or lotion, which is very important. "Micro-needling disrupts your skin's barrier, so if you’re going to do this you want to make sure that you put products on after to repair that barrier," Dr. Grossman says. "A good moisturizer that has some kind of barrier-repair properties, whether that is a simple Cetaphil or CeraVe, [will get the job done]."

Last but not least, you must always clean your roller before putting it away. Submerge it in alcohol, allow it to dry in its case with the top off, and then pack it away for next time.

 

"Hair Dusting" Is The Secret To Healthier, Longer Hair

 
 
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Last year I bleached my hair one too many times. Then I bleached it again.

No shock here: My normally very-resilient strands became more damaged than they'd been in years. It was own fault — and it's a common story in our era of icy and pastel hair color trends.

I called in the big guns for rehab — Olaplex, masks, pre-shampoo treatments — and they all made a major difference. But, as we all know very well, you can't really fix split or fried ends; you have to cut 'em off before they get worse. So, what's one to do when you need to lose the dead, fried, split weight, but aren't looking to go much shorter? Enter: Hair dusting.

L.A. hairstylist Sal Salcedo introducing me to the technique — and he literally saved my hair in one dust.


What Is Hair Dusting?

“Hair dusting is a technique in which you don’t get rid of any hair length, but only the damaged hair tips," Salcedo explains. "This can be done by snipping the very bottom of each hair strand."

So how does that work? "Think of it in terms of removing fuzz from clothes," he says. "You want to smooth the hair out the best you can first, because you need to allow the bad hair to pop up. That's what you will be getting rid of."

Here's the reason why many hairstylists don't do it: It's really time consuming. In fact, it's almost like a second haircut after your strands are shaped and trimmed. "It's more of a grooming technique, rather than an overall haircut," he says, noting that it's by no means new. "It's been done for ages, some cultures even use different techniques, like fire or razors."

Ready to see the technique in action?

And one more time in slow-motion...

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SAL SALCEDO.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SAL SALCEDO.

Convinced? Here’s What Your Stylist Needs To Know

“I hold smaller strands of hair in my hand, then slowly open and close my shears perpendicular to the hair strand, letting my shears catch the damaged hair," Salcedo says. "Then, I proceed to cutting the perimeter of the hair, if the ends are bad there, too."

Salcedo does this to most of his clients, which is why every look he shares on Instagram is so damn enviable. To achieve healthier hair, without going shorter, ask your hairstylist for a "dusting — not a trim!" Salcedo says. "Less than half an inch of a snip in most cases — and sometimes even less throughout the surface of the hair, the layers, and the ends. If it's dead, let it go."

Salcedo says the technique works on any hair type or texture — but you do need to smooth the hair out to see the damaged ends that should be removed. And no, it won't thin the hair — quite the opposite. It actually stops the damage by removing it, so you won't have split ends creeping up your strands. That said, make sure you go to a stylist that knows what they're doing — the dusting should be very minimal.

"The point is to get rid of hair that no longer serves you," Salcedo says. "Hair gets damaged because of weather, coloring, bad haircuts, hot tools, and most of time, just the age of the hair."

Want to see it a few more times in action? Keep on scrolling...


 

Everything You Need To Know Before Getting Undereye Filler

 
 
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While it might seem like undereye filler exploded into the beauty conversation the moment Katy Perry copped to it, the reality is that it's been an insider Hollywood secret for well over a decade. Tear trough filler, the actual name dermatologists use for the procedure, does what creams or makeup never could: smooths the circles under the eyes by filling in the hollow that becomes deeper as we age.

While it's easy to understand why the filler spot has increased in popularity, it’s also one of the riskier places to inject on the face due to its proximity to the eyes. If it's something you're considering, it's not to be taken lightly and should only be performed by a board-certified medical doctor who specializes in their field — also called core doctors — like dermatology and plastic surgery.

For everything you need to know, from the consultation and aftercare to the risks and pricing, we turned to three of the top injectors in Los Angeles. Click ahead for everything you need to know about tear trough filler, including a video to see exactly how it's done.

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Filling in the circles under your eyes sounds like a dream in theory, but the consultation is where you learn what comes along with the fairytale. Your provider should go over the side effects, risks, maintenance required, before-and-after images of their work, and price. Every city is different, but our experts in L.A. charge between $750 and $950 a syringe; most people only need one syringe to start, unless you have major volume loss.

This is also the time when your MD can determine if you're even a candidate to begin with. "People will come in thinking they need undereye filler when they don’t," board-certified dermatologist Karyn Grossman, MD, says. "Dark circles can be from discoloration or an indent." In other words, if the darkness under your eyes is a result of hyperpigmentation or a reflection of blood or muscle, filler won't do much.

"Tear trough filler is best for people who have minor fat pad bulges and can soften, but not erase, more significant fat pad bulges with some layering of filler," Dr. Grossman says. Some indents caused by fat pad bulges are genetic and can be seen in young people, while others find hollows develop or deepen through the aging process when collagen and elastin begin to break down and skin begins to sag.

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After covering your bases from a safety perspective, you want to make sure you choose someone whose aesthetic matches your desired end result. While there are many practitioners who offer it, the delicate procedure requires an experienced doctor with a trained eye. "Many people overfill the undereye," Dr. Grossman says. "But do you need to look younger than a 12-year-old?"

Board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD, agrees, adding that the area around the eyes is one of the hardest to achieve a natural result. Because the filler is injected above the bone, but below the muscle, the provider has to steer clear of veins in a very veiny area. A mistake here can result in unsightly or catastrophic results (more on that later).

Do your research, read every review you can, and prioritize quality and safety first. "This is not the time to use Groupon," Dr. Shamban says.

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First timers should only ask for hyaluronic acid dermal fillers, like Restylane, Juvederm, or Belotero. Yes, there are other options that last longer, including various forms of your own fat, but H.A. filler is the only reversible substance, which makes it ideal for newbies. And those three types in particular respond best to hyaluronidase, the substance injected to dissolve the filler if there is an emergency or the patient dislikes the result.

Which H.A. filler your provider chooses is important to the end result. Shamban prefers fillers from the Restylane family for this procedure, because you don't risk what she calls the "tyndall effect," or the blue-gray shadow that can occur when Juvederm is placed too close to the surface of skin.

Dr. Grossman agrees that Restylane is a more foolproof pick, but notes that Belotero is better for those with thin skin because it doesn't absorb as much water, so swelling is more minimal when you eat a big, salty meal. (Yep, filler can puff up a little when it absorbs water because it's hydrophilic.)

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We'll just come right out and say it: Yes, it will hurt. But your provider can apply topical numbing cream for 10 to 20 minutes beforehand to make the procedure more comfortable for you. Ahead of your appointment, you'll also want to avoid anticoagulants (blood thinners) like ibuprofen or aspirin, which can increase your risk of bruising. Lay off fish oil supplements and alcohol for as long as you can, too. (Some doctors say a day is fine, while others say two weeks is better.)

Of course, pain is relative, but most rank it a four to five out of 10: bearable, but memorable and 100% made worse by nerves. (Subsequent visits tend to rank closer to a two.) Your eyes will be sore as the numbing cream wears off, so get home and relax. But expect to feel fine by the following day. If not, follow up with your doctor.

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On the day of your procedure, your doctor will remove your makeup and cleanse your skin with both hibiclens (a medical-grade skin cleanser) and rubbing alcohol to prevent infection. Then, they will either inject your undereye area directly or use a cannula, which is a tiny tube that's inserted above the cheekbone and used to distribute product elsewhere, like under the eyes. Dr. Grossman and Dr. Shamban normally opt for a needle because it's said to be more precise, but board-certified dermatologist Annie Chiu, MD, sometimes uses a cannula because the risk of bruising is lower.

A skilled injector will go slowly, adding a bit of product at a time until they reach the desired result. “It’s important to do it in stages so we don’t over traumatize and have too much swelling,” Dr. Chiu points out. Most doctors will keep patients sitting up so they can assess the work as they go and try to limit the injection spots. "I usually do one to three entry points so you have less bruising," Dr. Shamban says.

Many doctors also mold the product with their fingers quickly after it's injected to shape it into place before it fully sets. The whole procedure should take about 15 minutes (post numbing) and your provider will immediately ice the area to reduce swelling and bruising afterward. It's important not to mess with your undereye area for the rest of the day because you want to avoid germs as much as possible. Makeup, for example, is a no-no.

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Some results will be visible immediately, albeit swelling means that you won't get a full picture until a few days later. The swelling should be on par with what your eyes look like after a sad movie or at the height of allergy season — nothing more and nothing a stranger would notice. If the swelling doesn't disappear after a few days, consult with your doctor.

“Undereye filler lasts between nine months and a year for the average person,” Chiu explains. Some fullness might stick around for longer depending on your anatomy and how quickly filler dissolves in your body — some even notice results for up to three years. Either way, all our experts recommend getting a touch-up before you lose all your results so you minimize the amount injected each time, plus any potential side effects.

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At this point, you're probably well aware that bruising is common. Some say it can be reduced with oral arnica and bromelain, but prepare to ice the area in 10 minute sessions throughout the first 24 hours. You'll also want to avoid working out for least a day, because raising your heart rate could exacerbate bruising.

If a nasty bruise does appear, Dr. Grossman has patients come back to the office for a quick ultrasound or laser treatment to help it disappear faster. Something called a "bleb" can also happen, which looks a bit like a welt in the injection spot. This means the filler was applied too close to the surface of the skin and needs to be dissolved.

Swelling and bruising are common, but more serious results can occur down the road. "Your filler could be fine then, six months later, your eyes are red, swollen, and tender," Dr. Grossman says. She says that's either a result of biofilm, which is a kind of infection that forms around the filler, or a sensitivity reaction that is developing to the filler. "That's treated with hyaluronate, antibiotics, and oral steroids," she says.

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Although incredibly rare, there are also vascular risks, like occlusions. "Any place that filler is injected can go into a blood vessel then go downstream and block blood flow to an area," Dr. Grossman says. "If it's just a skin occlusion, you see a blanching where the skin turns white and then it turns this dusty gray purple color and there are protocols that you do to deal with it."

But, in rarer cases, it can be much, much worse than that. "When a particle goes into a blood vessel and instead of going downstream to cause a skin occlusion it somehow has enough force to go upstream and into a larger blood vessel, and then back downstream from that, ocular occlusion [can occur]." That is, blindness or partial blindness in one or both eyes. The chance of this happening is a fraction of a percent, but that doesn't mean it's impossible, so it's important to consider.

Dr. Shamban points out that your risks slightly improve if you use a cannula, "But even a cannula can get into a vein," she says. Dr. Grossman agrees and adds that cannula occlusions have been reported. Which is why it's important to go to a doctor who can treat you in the event of an emergency, not a medi spa where the solution is to call 911.

Press play to watch Dr. Chiu give a patient tear trough filler for the first time.

 

Everything You Want To Know About Nipple Piercings (& We Mean Everything)

 
 
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Everyone has an opinion on nipple piercings. Maybe you have one of your own. Maybe you want one. Maybe the thought makes you want to cross your arms and protect your breasts at all costs. Or maybe, like us, you just want to know more about the whole thing.

The nipple piercing trend is currently having a big moment, thanks to stars like Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, Rihanna, Amber Rose, and Kristen Stewart (and those are just a few of the celebrities rumored to have one) — but given the hidden nature, it’s difficult to get a handle on just how popular it is. That's why we asked celebrity piercerBrian Keith Thompson of Body Electric Tattoo to tell us everything. But first he clarified one important thing: Nipple piercings aren't just for Hollywood bigwigs; they're for everyone in "every field you can imagine."

With that in mind, keep on clicking to see Thompson answer every single question you've ever wondered about nipple piercings. (Just in case you've got some more, feel free to leave them in the comments below.)

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This is a huge trend in L.A. right now. When did the uptick happen? Is the piercing more popularamong men or women?
“There are far more women getting pierced than men, ever since Kendall [Jenner] got hers done here [at Body Electric]. It’s been popular over the past few years, but nothing like after Kendall did it. But you gotta give some credit to Rihanna, too. She definitely contributed to it. It feels like I've pierced every nipple in Los Angeles — twice.”

Are most people doing one nipple or both?
“More women are doing both right now, which is a big shift from last year when women were just doing one and it was the men doing both."


Pick one: barbells or hoops?
"Barbells are way more popular. They’re more subtle under clothes and they heal faster because they don’t move around as much,” says Thompson. Barbells also allow for more room for swelling: “I like to allow at least an eighth of an inch on each side of the nipple, between the ball.” This allows for the fluctuation. Plus, it’s easier to accidentally hit or pull a hoop than a barbell. One more thing while we’re on the subject: You want to go with an internally threaded barbell, not an externally threaded one, which means the bar is smooth and won’t create irritation and tiny cuts while going in or out of the piercing.

What kind of metal is best? How much should the piercing and ring cost in total?
Thompson prefers titanium for those that want to save some dough because it’s hypoallergenic and rarely problematic. Obviously, gold (white, rose, or yellow) or platinum is great, too, if you want to splurge.

You can also go for stainless steel, but Thompson notes that not all stainless steel is created equally: Cheap options (often imported from overseas) can be under $20, but they can have a good amount of nickel mixed in, which is a common culprit of allergic reactions. Stick to medical-grade or implant-grade stainless steel if you go that path.

A quality titanium or implant-grade stainless steel barbell with the piercing will run you about $50 or 60 bucks in most cities. Solid gold can be upwards of several hundred with the piercing. And platinum? If you have to ask, you can't afford it.

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Let’s talk about pain — how bad is it really?
Thompson calls it “totally tolerable,” but spend enough time on Reddit boards and chatting with those who have experienced it and you’ll find it’s considered one of the most painful piercings. But, it’s also incredibly fleeting. “It’s like one, two, done,” Thompson says. “It’s short-lived pain.”

How long does it take to heal?
On average, it’s between a few months and a year (six months is the most common answer), but some nipples, unfortunately, cannot tolerate the piercing and never heal. (The warning sign yours is rejecting the piercing? A red streak across your nipple. You want to get the jewelry out before it fully rejects, because if you let it get pushed too far, “you’re going to have a terrible scar.”)

However, that doesn’t mean the healing process is a nightmare. “The first few days, they’re going to be very tender, then they start feeling good, fast,” he says. But whatever you do, don’t think you were the exception and have healed nipples in a few weeks: “People start feeling good, so they stop taking care of them, they start touching them, they let their significant other play with them,” Thompson says. This is a big mistake that can lead to problems, so stay diligent for the first year, or risk having major issues.

Can you pierce any nipple? Even small, inverted, or flat nipples?
“I’ve never met a nipple I couldn’t pierce,” Thompson says. Yep, that includes all the types mentioned above. He notes that inverted nipples are almost as common as flat ones — and he pierces plenty of them. Piercing an inverted nipple can actually cause it to become pushed out, while flat nipples will become slightly more raised. Small nipples are a breeze; he just opts for a smaller barbell.

Those very concerned about flat or inverted nipples can request a suction device that pulls the nipple out, making it easier — although it’s not really necessary, Thompson says. "Your piercer can simply work the nipple out with their fingers," he says. (If that made your stomach turn, prepare yourself for what's to come.)

Do pierced nipples stay hard forever?
“No, the nipple will not stay erect, but it will be more pronounced."

Is there anything you have to avoid after you get pierced?
Keeping it clean and free of foreign bacteria is of paramount importance for the first few months. That means you (and your partner) should limit touching, and avoid pools, spas, hot tubs, bodies of water, and even showers in countries with water sanitation limitations. Translation: If you wouldn’t feel comfortable drinking the water, don’t let it touch your nipple until it’s healed.

What’s the actual piercing process like?
Obviously, all places work a little differently and it's very important to make sure you go to a reputable piercing studio with clean conditions, good reviews (check Yelp and Google the shit out of your piercer), and an experienced staff — but you already knew that. Having said that, know your experience shouldn’t be too far off from how it works at Body Electric. Here’s how it goes down.

After you pick your jewelry and sign the proper forms, the piercing room will be closed for privacy. First, the jewelry is sterilized with a machine. The nipple is cleaned with alcohol and a surgical scrub, then it’s dotted with a marker before you are asked to lie down on the piercing table — just in case you pass out. "Nine times out of ten, the client wants a horizontal piercing," Thompson says.

Then, the nipple is clamped. “Some piercers don’t use clamps on the nipple, but I do because it makes the whole process a little faster,” Thompson says. A few deep breathes and in goes the needle. (If they pull out a piercing gun, put on your top and run!) Your piercer will then put your jewelry in, apply pressure to stop any bleeding, and place a bandage over the piercing.

Is bleeding normal?
Yes, bleeding is totally normal and common both at the time of the piercing and during the first week, Thompson says — but it doesn’t happen to everyone. If you're bleeding after a week, or more than you would from a small cut, call your piercer and explain what's going on.

What should you expect for a few days after?
Your nipples may bleed for the first week and you can expect them to be incredibly sore. You’ll quickly realize how often your nipple lightly brushes random things — because it’s going to hurt. It will get crusty and require daily cleaning.

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What’s the most common follow-up call you receive after you pierce someone's nipple?
“That they’re swollen more than we foresaw and they need to come in and put a longer post in their barbell,” Thompson says. Luckily, it’s easy to swap the posts, if only until the swelling goes down. You need to come in fast if your nipple is swollen past the ball or risk other issues.

How do you care for a nipple piercing?
Gentle soap and warm water applied very gently once per day in the shower, then just allow the piercing to air-dry. Different piercers recommend different formulas, but Thompson sends everyone home with a bottle of Dr. Bronner's Castile Soap in Tea Tree or Baby Unscented (for sensitive skin). You can pick this up at most health food stores.

We can't stress this next part enough: Don't touch it! That means no turning or touching the barbell — at all! Don't let anyone else touch it, either. Wear a soft cotton bra (like a bralette or comfy sports bra), and just try to forget about it for a few weeks, short of monitoring the healing and washing it in the shower.

It’s normal for nipple piercings to get crusty, so many people opt for a daily sterile saline bath. Grab a bottle of sterile saline and a shot glass, or try Thompson's DIY: Mix half a teaspoon of sea salt in a large mug of warm water until dissolved, then fill a shot glass or smaller mug with the mixture, cup over the nipple, and let it soak for as long as you like. “You can’t [overdo] this — it’s great for speeding up the healing process,” Thompson says. Still getting crusty after six months? Try upgrading your jewelry; it could be a light allergic reaction.

Avoid rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, ointment, or anything else you may use to treat a wound. Repeat after us: Soap, saline, soft bras — and no touching!

How do you know if your nipple is infected and you need to see a doctor, or if it’s just irritated or healing slowly?
Thompson says that an infection is not as common as you might think, and most irritation is likely from an allergic reaction to cheap jewelry, while pain and redness could be from a too-small barbell. This is what he tells his clients: An actual infection will cause a slight fever, swollen lymph nodes, or a piercing that's red, inflamed, and painful. If something feels off, it probably is — and the nipple is no place to take risks. Call your piercer as soon as you suspect an issue and never be shy about calling your primary care physician for advice — that’s what they’re there for.

Can my new piercing cause nipple thrush?
Nipple thrush isn't the same as your typical piercing infection — yes, it's an infection, but it's caused by yeast. Although it's possible for a piercing to trigger nipple thrush, it's not likely, says Sherry Ross, MD, OB/GYN, and author of she-ology. Just in case you do think you have nipple thrush, Dr. Ross says to keep an eye out for these symptoms: pain, swelling, redness, burning, itching, or stinging of the nipples. She adds that the skin of the nipple could appear shiny or flaky, as well as blister. If any of that sounds like you, contact your physician ASAP.

Can you change your jewelry yourself?
"Yes, once it’s healed and you feel confident, it’s totally fine to switch out your jewelry yourself," Thompson says. The only caveat? “Don’t take too much time to do it." The nipple, especially in the first year, could start to close up within a few minutes. Because of this, Thompson suggests letting a pro change your jewelry the first few times.

Will the hole close if you remove the jewelry down the road?
Most of the time, even if the nipple is healed and you’ve had the piercing for years, the hole will close up — fast. There are exceptions, of course, and some holes stay open for years without jewelry, but it’s pretty uncommon.

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What happens if you have to have a non-related medical procedure that requires removal of the piercing?
You can purchase a "retainer," which is basically a glass barbell that won’t disrupt a procedure (like an MRI or surgery) and maintain the hole.

Level with us: How long do you and your S.O. really have to wait before touching them?
Thompson says that the less people who touch it, the better, to limit foreign germs. In other words: Try to avoid letting a bunch of random hook-ups feel you up for awhile. “At least go three or four weeks and try to keep it to a minimum,” Thompson says, “but it’s not like you have to go six months.” And obviously, wash your hands before touching your nipples.

Does the piercing make your nipples more sensitive?
Yes and no. The nervous system is what makes your nipples sensitive, he explains, so it doesn’t really make them more sensitive, but it does make them stick out more and makes you more aware of them, so for some, this is more than enough to make a noticeable difference. Of course, many people do report they are significantly more sensitive after, so this answer isn’t so black and white.

Let’s talk about scarring. What are the best and worst case scenarios?
Any piercing is going to leave a mark, but you can minimize it with proper care. “If they’re done properly and you don’t have any reaction to the metal, they will be very minimal and most people won’t even notice,” Thompson says. However, genetics and complications can cause keloids or hypertrophic scarring, and again, it could reject, leaving you with a bad scar that would require surgery to attempt to fix. "With every type of piercing, you must remember that there are repercussions and scars can happen,” he says.

Once they’re healed, can you breastfeed?
“This is my most common question — and the answer is yes,” Thompson says. It's true that it shouldn't impact your ability to breastfeed, but that’s not to say that a nipple piercing can’t cause complications. Again, there are risks and complications and scarring can happen.

Which is more painful: nipple or genital piercings?
“Well, that depends on the genital piercing — there are some male genital piercings that will make you see God," Thompson says with a laugh.

Is it safe to pierce the same spot for a second time? It's been about two years since I removed mine because I felt like they were being rejected. I really miss them and have considered getting them done again.
"Absolutely. I’ve re-pierced each one of mine, I think it’s about four times now. It’s not going to hurt more and it's not going to cause any additional problems. There’s really no downside to re-piercing again."

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What is the best and most comfortable bra to wear after getting them done?Thompson suggests a soft, cotton, dark-colored sports bra. You won't risk staining a light fabric with a little blood (hey, it happens) or tugging on your piercing with details or delicate fabric, like lace. However, at the end of the day, it's all about trial and error, but definitely start with something you know is comfortable and won't catch on your jewelry.

Should you start with one nipple and then wait until that's healed until you get the other one done?
“It’s about personal preference — whatever works for you should be the way you get pierced,” Thompson says. “If you want to wait and heal one and then do the next, then by all means go ahead and do that. If you want to sit down and knock it out in one shot, then that’s great, too.”

When can you start working out?
"Thirty minutes after you get it pierced. Working out has no impact on the piercing itself unless you’re putting tension on it. If you feel pain in the area, that’s your body telling you it doesn’t like what’s going on — so stop doing it. Keeping your piercing clean is also something to consider, because it's like an open wound, so cleanliness at the gym and how thick your clothing is is something to consider."

What should I wear to the appointment? Do I have to remove my shirt?
"It depends on your comfort level and your piercer," Thompson says. "If you don’t want to remove your shirt, you don’t have to — you could pull it up or pull it down. I’ve had clients do a little bit of everything. It really doesn’t matter, so wear what you feel comfortable in."

 

I Went To Gwyneth Paltrow's Ayurvedic Healer & It Was…Bizarre

 
 

“It’s deeply rejuvenating, but it’s also experiential…it’s a little bit difficult to articulate,” the woman across the table tells me between mouthfuls of dhal, a bland mung bean soup that we're both eating in preparation for what comes next. “Each time has been a different series of results and effects for me, but always an enormous amount of releasing: thoughts, feelings, patterns…”

I’m sitting in the kitchen of a house perched high on a cliff in the Pacific Palisades neighborhood of Los Angeles waiting to see Martha Soffer, an ayurvedic healer trusted by some of L.A.’s most notable current and former residents: Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Hudson, Julia Roberts, Matt Damon, and Kourtney Kardashian, to name a few. Of course, celebrities are known to be fans of “woo-woo,” and I am not, so I’m impatiently waiting to get in, and out, so I can head back to the office.

Little did I know, I would not make it back to the R29 L.A. offices today.

THE COMMUNAL LUNCH TABLE. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

THE COMMUNAL LUNCH TABLE. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

A Little Background

Ayurveda is a bit tough to describe. Basically, it’s an ancient Hindu system of wellness practices that originated in India between 5,000 and 10,000 years ago. (That's long before Jesus Christ and the pyramids, mind you.) It looks at the whole being — body, mind, and spirit — and calls upon nutrition, herbs, and treatments to achieve harmony and health through vigorous detoxification. The hallmark of this is called panchakarma, or PK, for short, which is essentially a lengthy mash-up of different smaller treatments, curated by your healer to achieve specific results. Ayurveda is thought to help everything from restless sleep to Parkinson's Disease, but more on that later.

A BLEND OF HERBS. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

A BLEND OF HERBS. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

Of all the things my lunchmate told me during the hour I waited for my treatment, the most necessary to share is this: "The more I learn about ayurveda, the more I realize I don't know anything — and I know a lot!" she told me. Of course, like fashion, food, and popular culture, what’s old almost always becomes new again, which is exactly why I am nibbling on the recommended pre-treatment lunch of dhal, steamed rice, and vegetables with women who have just come out of morning treatments, and those waiting to go into the afternoon ones. And then my name was called.



...THE WOMEN BEGIN TO BLOT AND WIPE THE MILK OVER MY ENTIRE BODY...



The Consultation

Once inside the master bedroom, I am told to undress and lie on a table draped with a white sheet. There are steps up to table, and crystals artfully positioned underneath it. I quickly learn this is no luxury massage: No lights will be dimmed, no terry cloth robe will be provided, and I need to get over my fear of being buck naked in front of strangers — or I will not be healed today.

Once on the table, I'm covered with a sheet, and Soffer enters the room to take my pulse. With one hand firmly on my wrist, she asks me a series of questions about my health, zeroing in on queries about my skin and joints. I tell her I get hives and dry skin on occasion but have no joint issues. She continues to press, but I assure her my joints are fine. Knees? All good, I say. Hips? Pain-free, I assure her. She gives me a look of disbelief and goes to finish preparing my treatments in the kitchen.

Later, I learn that she's holding my pulse to determine which of three doshas — broad categories that describe your body's humor, or temperament — I most closely align with. She tells me that a Vata's pulse jumps like a frog, a Pitta's swims like a swan, and a Kapha's slithers like a snake. Vata people tend to have trouble gaining weight and are often cold and stressed; Pittas neither gain nor lose weight easily, can have high blood pressure, and are highly reactive emotionally; and Kaphas have trouble losing weight and are generally more laid-back. I'm deemed a Pitta and my treatment will include cooling herbs, milk, and brown rice to help "calm my insides," which will, in turn, help my redness and hives.

A CUSTOME MIXTUR EOF HERBS BEING LOADED INTO A BOLSA. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

A CUSTOME MIXTUR EOF HERBS BEING LOADED INTO A BOLSA. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

Treatment 1: The Oily One

First up is a vat of oil cooked the night before with a blend of herbs to help the health concerns I reported when I made the appointment: stress, trouble sleeping, and more stress. The first woman (there are always two working on me) fashions a small towel into a loincloth of sorts, places it on my nether regions, and begins by drenching my hair and scalp with the hot oil. Then, in unison, they pour and massage more oil over my entire body. Breasts, butt, thighs — it's all being oiled, with each woman doing mirror movements on either side of my body the entire time. The oil has a rich, earthy scent that is unpleasant but not intolerable, and it's a few degrees warmer than what would be considered comfortable. Unlike a massage, there is no pressure; they're simply rubbing it in, and pouring more and more oil until the sheet I am laying on is drenched and I am laying in a hot, oily pool. This goes on for about an hour, after which I am wrapped in a clean sheet while they (thankfully) change the sheets on the bed.

OIL LACED WITH HERBS. PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

OIL LACED WITH HERBS. PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

Treatment 2: The Milky One

When I return from the restroom, I lie back on the bed and I get another hand-towel loincloth. Using bolsas (small cloth bags full of herbs and, for my treatment, brown rice) dipped in hot, raw milk, the women begin to blot and wipe the milk over my entire body. As I lie there, I can feel the milk begin to thicken and turn sticky. I take a moment to peek from under my eye mask, and the liquid saturating my new sheet is brown and slightly chunky. Just like the oil, it begins to pool around my body. This goes on for another hour or so. At this point, I am ready to go home. Like, now. But I grin and bear it and am relieved when I am told I can rinse the clumpy hot milk from my body before my next treatment. I am led back to the bathroom, where I fiddle with the shower until I manage to get a tolerable water temperature. There are no bath towels, so I grab a loincloth-size hand towel and return to the room.

A TYPICAL TREATMENT USING BOLSAS FILLED OF HERBS. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

A TYPICAL TREATMENT USING BOLSAS FILLED OF HERBS. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

Treatment 3 : The Drippy One

It's nearing 4 p.m. (I arrived at 1 p.m.), but I agree to the last treatment, a jug that drips a steady stream of liquid directly onto the center of your forehead for around 25 minutes. It's called shirodhara and is said to work wonders on the nervous system. I consider myself very lucky that Soffer has selected coconut water for mine (hot oil is another common option, and I don't think I could have taken more oil at this point). At first it's jarring. Between the proximity to my eyes and the odd sensation, my nerves are going haywire, but eventually they calm. I never truly relaxed during it — Soffer told me that takes some practice — and by the time the water stopped 25 minutes later, I am one oily foot out the door. After a second shower, I have officially finished my first round of ayurveda, and never before have I been so relieved to be done with any journalistic assignment. (For the record, it took a second shower at home to remove all the oil from my hair and a few more to lift the scent from my skin.)


Astrology, yoga, lifestyle, food, treatments...it's a complete system of health.

MARTHA SOFFER

The Day After

A few days later, I caught up with Soffer on the phone, where she explained the doshas, the treatments I received, and a little bit about her background. Sure, she's an alternative healer to the stars, but her start wasn't unusual. In the mid-'90s, she was recently dumped and totally despondent, so she left Colombia and ventured to the States for higher education. After working on her ESL at Maharishi School of the Age of Enlightenment (Soffer is also an expert in transcendental meditation), she went on to study alternative medicine. Shortly after, she became in demand for her unique skill in the practice of ayurveda and, less than a decade later, she's leading a resurgence of the ancient practice. She was one of the first to practice in L.A.; now there are dozens popping up in affluent neighborhoods including Beverly Hills and West Hollywood. After all, the treatments aren't cheap. Soffer charges between $195 and $550 per day, and you're encouraged to go for a series lasting between three and 21 days for optimal effects.

A BOLSA READY FOR THE TREATMENT. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

A BOLSA READY FOR THE TREATMENT. / PHOTO: COURTESY OF SURYA.

Soffer has no shortage of information on the subject, but as she continued to touch on the many layers of the ideology on our phone call, I am reminded of the quote my lunch buddy told me: The more you learn, the less you know. Which is exactly how I am feeling. Ayurveda is both complicated and simple, and completely up to interpretation. After all, it's been around far longer than recorded history, so the original manual isn't printed in a textbook. According to Soffer, "Ayurveda is about life." She continues, "It uses astrology, yoga, lifestyle, food, treatments…it's a complete system of health."

It's no secret that the Western medical community is split on the topic. It's not difficult to find a M.D. who practices ayurveda as part of an integrative medical approach (the combination of conventional and alternative medicine), but then again, it's far easier to find one that dismisses Eastern practices like this. I say, if rubbing milk on your body floats your boat, go for it! Your health and well-being is what you make it. But I'll probably keep my dairy in my coffee.

 

A Harvard Medical School Breakthrough, In A Cream

 
 

In the not-so-distant past, there were two main options when it came to skin care: Things that were backed by scientific studies to prove they work and those that were natural, but unproven. Of course, you also had all the muck in the middle: formulas with a mishmash of ingredients that may work, but weren't able to back up their claims with cold, hard science. Thankfully, a lot has changed with the former two options and more and more brands are taking a scientific approach to studying and harnessing natural ingredients. Leave it to the French to be on the forefront of that movement.

Last year, French skin-care brand Caudalíe launched an anti-aging line called Resveratrol Lift, rooted in science finessed in Harvard's labs by esteemed life-extension scientist Dr. David Sinclair. Nicknamed the "Longevity Guru" for his research in reversing aging and dubbed by Time as one of 100 Most Influential People in the world, you likely know his famous quote: “The first person to live to 150 has already been born."

This past week, Caudalíe has unveiled the newest piece to the puzzle: A soft cream that feels as luxurious as ones much higher in price that harnesses the power of the science it's named for. Bonus: It also acts like a primer, blurring imperfections and leaving behind a matte finish perfect for layering under makeup. We know, we know —let's get back to what makes it so great. But first, a little background.

Mathilde and Bertrand Thomas' family vineyard in Bordeaux, France.

Mathilde and Bertrand Thomas' family vineyard in Bordeaux, France.

It Started Where All Good Things Do: With Wine

To understand this story, you first need a little background on Caudalíe. You probably know the brand from its addictive facial spray, skin-smoothing body scrubs, and maybe even its chain of deeply relaxing spas — but there's science behind the line that may surprise you. It all started during a wine tour in 1993 of Mathilde Thomas' family vineyard in Bordeaux, France, and a chance encounter with Professor Joseph Vercauteren, who was visiting from Montpellier's University of Pharmacy in France.

“He said our wine was very good, but we were throwing away the most interesting parts: the grape seeds," Thomas says. Vercauteren was already studying the benefits of grapes on health — and the resveratrol that can be harvested from them. Say it with me: Res-ver-ah-trol. That little ingredient found in red wine is the most important part of this story.

Fast-forward a few years: Mathilde and her husband, Bertrand, are working with the professor, as well as a team of their own, to research and create skin-care based around vineyard grapes. After all, they had the grapes. Within a few years, they had patents for their work with the anti-aging, dark spot-reducing resveratrol. Namely, finding the best resveratrol (it was hiding in the stalk and the vines) and linking that molecule with fatty acids to make it stable enough to actually do good for your skin. Think of resveratrol as your drunk friend: fun, but maybe they also need a slice of pizza at the end of the night. So a skin-care line based on science and natural ingredients was born.



We need to teach the skin to act young again.

DR. DAVID SINCALIR



Enter: The Harvard Brain Trust

Caudalíe had already pushed forward the research on the power of grapes. Then, in the early 2000s, it heard about another great mind working on the cause on another continent.

"Professor Vercauteren and I had been working together for years when he told me about this professor at Harvard Medical School, Dr. David Sinclair, who was on the other side of the planet studying resveratrol, as well,” she says. So she called up the good doctor and asked if they could compare notes. As expected, Dr. Sinclair is approached frequently to work with cosmetic companies, but it wasn't until now that the ethos truly aligned, he says.

Compared with all the hoopla surrounding many anti-aging products and methods, Dr. Sinclair’s approach is quite simple: How do we get product we know is good for the body deep enough into the skin so it can mimic what fillers do — only without the needle? (For the record, he says injections freak him out.) Now, we doubt anyone questioned whether or not he could get product into the inner layers of the skin, but what would it do when it got there?

We've learned vineyard stalks house the best natural resveratrol.

We've learned vineyard stalks house the best natural resveratrol.

They wanted to create a moisturizer with two missions: strengthen the collagen fibers in the skin ("The network that keeps the skin up and prevents it from sagging," Dr. Sinclair says.) and improve hyaluronic acid levels. ("Which is what keeps the water in the skin,” he explains.) Read: firm, plump, and hydrate. “That was the challenge,” he continues, “to slow this [aging process] down and try to reverse [it].”

Simple, right? Well, kind of — but luckily, the principals he and his team at Harvard operate under give them the freedom to make breakthroughs at a molecular level through vigorous genetic testing. “That’s what we have been doing at Harvard to try to reverse aging in the entire body, to treat diseases like cancer and heart disease and Alzheimer’s disease,” he says. “[It’s the] the same technology, the things that we discovered control the aging process [in the body] are also in the skin; we’ve used that knowledge in this product. Our motto is that we need to teach the skin to act young again.”

After a few years of playing around with all-natural resveratrol from Caudalíe and an endless supply of hyaluronic acid, researchers found something — something big. “We had a breakthrough just last year," he says with a smile. The patent came soon after, filed jointly between Caudalíe and Harvard.

A Brief Note On Hyaluronic Acid

So why all the talk about hyaluronic acid (or HA, for short) when the whole line is based on resveratrol? Well, it's important to know that as we age, our bodies stop making as much hyaluronic acid — the natural molecules that hold onto water and make our skin look youthful and wonderfully hydrated.

Tons of products on the market are packed with hyaluronic acid, but getting it into the skin and encouraging your dermal layers to hold onto it for long enough to make a difference is the challenge many skin-care brands try to tackle. But it's not just an issue with creams — hyaluronic acid is the main ingredient in most dermal fillers. Even when shot into the skin with a needle, the HA is still metabolized within a few months, which is why most lip injections only last between three and six months. Translation: HA doesn't like to stick around for long — it's not in its nature.

The Breakthrough: Say Bonjour To The HAS2 Gene

Remember when Dr. Sinclair said that he wanted to try to get the skin to act young again? The breakthrough that accomplished this came when he and his team started playing with RNA sequencing. The goal? To isolate genes that reacted to a unique blend of resveratrol and HA.

"There are more than 20,000 genes in a cell. We used the latest in genetic technology to see which of these [reacted the most]," he explains. "It allowed us to measure every gene." One gene in particular, which we all have, stood out. Its name is HAS2.

Think of HAS2 as the friend whose eyes perk up when wine is passed around — this was the gene that loved resveratrol and now researchers knew exactly how to turn it on. They just had to find the right blend to do the most good. [Ed. note: Anyone else feeling like they'd be fast friends with HAS2?]

At this point in the discussion, you may be falling asleep. But know that Sinclair's eyes are lighting up and he's getting really excited — because it gets even better, so stay with us. Playing with blends and mixtures of molecules powered by Professor Vercauteren's original science, Sinclair and his team found a mix of molecules that, quite literally, made the HAS2 gene tell the body to make more hyaluronic acid, something genes don't want to do under normal circumstance. It's almost like they got HAS2 drunk; in it's stupor, it started making tons of hyaluronic acid.

A few words on the nitty-gritty of how it goes down: "The resveratrol goes in and turns on the HAS2 gene," Dr. Sinclair explains. With the right mircomolecules of hyaluronic acid mixed in, they saw "more than a 200% increase in [the production of HA in] this gene."

You may be asking: How drunk was HAS2? Pretty drunk: "HAS2 now makes this protein, an enzyme, that sits on the surface of skin cells and captures the micro hyaluronic acid that carries the product." Here's where it gets really wild: During this process, the HAS2 gene actually starts squashing the hyaluronic acid, which in turn, traps it in the skin. Awesome? Yes — and no one saw it coming: "[The process] makes them long, and when they’re long, they get stuck down in the skin naturally, they spread out, and that holds the water in," he says. Talk about getting the blend just right.

The final challenge? To make it work outside of the lab. "Getting molecules into the skin is difficult. Most will just sit on top," Dr. Sinclair explains. "[But] it was formulated so we could get both of the key ingredients deep into the dermis." The results out of the lab translated: In 84 days, the test group found increased firmness and more lifted skin.

Screen Shot 2019-08-27 at 5.12.52 PM.png

It’s All In The Details

Naturally, they didn't just load the new ingredients into any old cream or serum. The French never overlook the importance of details, from the texture (Thomas describes the Soft Cream like cashmere — and she's not far off.) to packaging and scent.

"I wanted this scent to be all-natural and very addictive," she explains. Many would describe it a bit like herbal tea: "It's a blend of red thyme, lavender, basil, orange blossom, and sage," she says, "and it's also oil-free and 94% natural."

There's a caveat for this day cream, however: it doesn't have SPF, which was a thoughtful move, since SPF could muck up the efficacy of the formula. But it was formulated so it would penetrate fast, so you can layer your SPF moisturizer over it, Thomas says.

Speaking to Thomas, it's clear that the Soft Cream is her favorite, but she notes that the line's serum actually has the highest percentage of the resveratrol. The day cream, however, checks more than one box: priming for makeup and delivering soft, comfortable hydration in one easy step. They both ring in at under $100, as opposed to brands that compete with this kind of science whose creams can run double or triple that.

“It was a real breakthrough," Dr. Sinclair says, "but I’m sure there will be more.”

 

This Drugstore Face Cream Is A Game Changer For People With Dry Skin

 
 
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When it comes to quality skin care, it's easy to feel like the more you pay, the better your results will be. While that is certainly true in some instances, there are exceptions — and this could be the biggest one we've seen in a while. Enter: a moisturizing face cream with the backing of a ground-breaking French skin treatment center, five years of devoted research, and 13 clinical studies. Oh, and did we mention that it's under $20?

It may seem too good to be true, but I can tell you firsthand that it's not. How do I know? Because I traveled to a remote part of France to see not only how it's made, but the people whose lives have been changed by the science behind it. (Spoiler: It has to do with bacteria.) It's the biggest release in years from storied skin-care company La Roche Posay — and we've got the full scoop. But let's back up to the beginning.


Les Thermes La Roche Posay treats thousands of people every year.

Les Thermes La Roche Posay treats thousands of people every year.

First Came The Town, Then Came The Brand

This story starts four hours south of Paris, in a town where everyone's favorite French drugstore brand hails: La Roche Posay. One of the draws of the sleepy region is a government-subsidized skin treatment center that specializes in severe cases of eczema and acne, psoriasis, scarring, rosacea, and more, plus various skin issues faced by cancer patients after surgery or chemotherapy.

Here at Les Thermes La Roche Posay, a center that opened its doors in 1904, the mostly-French population of patients spend three vigorous weeks, six full days per week, being aggressively treated with — get ready — water!

Each year, thousands of people here are treated with hydrotherapy. That is, nothing more than the thermal spring water coming up from the ground. Patients are (quite literally) placed on stretchers and sprayed, misted, and bathed for extended periods of time by doctors and specialists. They also drink the unfiltered water — about a liter per day. (You can scroll down to the bottom of this page to watch a video of the treatments in action.)

Thermal center manager Rachid Ainouche demonstrates a hydrotherapy treatment to a room of visiting dermatologists.

Thermal center manager Rachid Ainouche demonstrates a hydrotherapy treatment to a room of visiting dermatologists.

I realize that this probably isn't what you expected. It doesn't look or feel like a luxurious spa by any means; more like a pared-down hospital with the addition of gym showers. What the hell could you possibly get from a few weeks spent receiving a steady prescription of water? Turns out, a lot.

On average, a three week stay at the center results in major improvement. Of a recent sampling of patients, 86% saw improved skin flexibility and elasticity, 83% found a decrease in itching, 80% saw a reduction of scars, and 65% saw an increase in self esteem. (Yes, they monitor just about everything.) In a recent study on those with psoriasis, 93% saw a reduction in dryness, 67% saw a decrease in pruritus (severe itching), and joint pain was reduced in 16%.

Patients drink a liter of untreated thermal water a day.

Patients drink a liter of untreated thermal water a day.

The Fountain Of… A Better Barrier?

So how the hell does it work? And what does it have to do with this drugstore cream? So glad you asked.

You've probably heard about your skin's "moisture barrier," but your skin has another barrier, too — something La Roche Posay scientists are just now starting to understand as the "microbiome," a diverse and apparently very sensitive community of micro-organisms that live on the skin's surface. And when that community is thrown off in any way, that's when skin problems arise. Case in point: All the patients at the center with atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis suffer from the bacterial imbalance upon arrival.

The reason that hydrotherapy often works for them is because the unfiltered spring water isn't treated or filtered and has just the right mix of bacteria and minerals to correct skin conditions. In other words, it acts a bit like a restart button, resetting the skin's natural bacteria to an equilibrium where it can, in short, protect itself better. It's not as easy as adding a certain bacteria, but rather how all the bacteria interacts together to protect the skin.

But there's a problem: The water from this spring is only good for three days. After that, the bacteria starts to multiply and becomes unsafe for humans. But there is one thing they can take from it...

As far as our cameras were allowed in at one of the factories we toured.

As far as our cameras were allowed in at one of the factories we toured.

Cracking The Code In Chimex

After my stop in La Roche Posay (and armed with my own bottle of thermal water to sip — quickly), I headed to parent company L'Oréal's bacteria research center in Chimex, France, a few hours north.

There I entered a top-secret lab where a small staff of scientists are studying pre- and probiotics.

To clarify, prebiotics are the "food" that good bacteria "feed" on to survive, normally made up of molecules in the carbohydrate family. (All these years and the answer was carbs — we should’ve known!) They're not to be confused with probiotics, which is what we call good bacteria. (Again, you need bacteria diversity, not just "good bacteria," for healthy skin.)

Got it? Great, because it's all about to come together.

Five Years and 13 Studies Later…

Here's where it gets good: The prebiotic discovered in the thermal spring water, the one that's been proven to help the skin's microbiome thrive, was finally harnessed and is now available in a range of products from LRP — without a trip to rural France. (Although, to be honest, go if you can!)

Think of this line, of which the cream is our favorite, as a healthy snack for your skin. In fact, in testing, the brand found that the skin's barrier looked and acted better in just one hour after using it. Plus, it has extras, like ceramide-3, to help support the moisture barrier; niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 that they've found helps to sooth skin; and glycerin to lock it all in. I got my hands on it upon release and immediately noticed a major improvement in both the comfort and hydration levels of my own dry skin — and I have no plans to stop using it.

Is it as amazing as a trip to rural France? Few things are — but for $20 it could just be the fuel your skin needs to look and feel its best. And if that isn't a breakthrough, we don't know what is.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer, $19.99, available at La Roche Posay.


 

These Two Millennials Want To Change The Way We Die

 
 

“I wasn’t some kooky kid who was collecting dead animals and keeping them in jars,” Amber Carvaly explains. “I was obsessed with The Little Mermaid and I had so many Barbies; I was just like everybody else. But I also loved The Nightmare Before Christmas. I really like the romanticism of death.”

Carvaly’s red hair is pulled into a tight bun and she's sitting behind a large wooden desk that takes up half of Undertaking L.A.’s just-opened office. East Hollywood’s latest funeral home isn’t what you’d expect from a mortuary — but then again, neither is Carvaly.

She is the first to admit the word "mortician" conjures some undesirable stereotypes: creepy men who prefer the company of dead bodies; or maybe greedy ones, who prey on the families of the deceased with high prices during a fragile time. And perhaps the worst: it’s most certainly not a job for a woman. But Carvaly is a mortician and a woman — and half of a new company that could likely change those clichés for good, although that’s not their goal. They have bigger fish to fry than stereotypes. 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

A Little Background

Carvaly grew up in Corona, California, a small town about two hours east of L.A. She was laid off from her first job out of college when the Great Recession hit, forcing her to give up a rewarding post at the Downtown Women’s Shelter for a stint waiting tables. It was there she ran into an old pal, who had become a mortician.

“I was like, ‘Wow, it never occurred to me that this was a thing you could do,'" Carvaly says. “You grow up and people are like, ‘What do you want to do? Be a teacher, a doctor, or a lawyer?’ None of those sounded right, so I think I’m going to try this.’” It was at Cypress College’s School of Mortuary Science — which she notes is a very intense program with high dropout rates, and one of only two mortuary schools in the entire state of California — that she learned about Caitlin Doughty, a student a few semesters ahead.


“I wasn’t some kooky kid who was collecting dead animals and keeping them in jars,”

-AMBER CARVALY


“People were gossiping about this girl who was doing videos,” Carvaly says. “I went on my computer and I was like, ‘This girl’s really funny.’ I forget what video it was that I watched, but I was enamored with her. She’s so clever and witty, and she’s taking this hard topic and talking about it in this clever, satirical way.” Carvaly’s talking about Ask A Mortician, Doughty's YouTube series where, like the name implies, she fields questions about dying, embalming, and everything in-between. It's catnip for the curious set: Her milk-white skin, jet-black hair, and purposefully cheesy props bring 'em in, her candid knowledge keeps 'em hooked. 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

As a child growing up in Hawaii, Doughty had a fascination with death. “I wasn't overly morbid, but we all struggle with our obsessions,” she says. “Learning you're going to die someday is harsh for a child in the single digits.” After landing in California, she got a job as a crematory operator — and the rest is history. Relatively speaking, she could be considered one of the most famous people in her field. There are the aforementioned YouTube videos and a New York Times best-selling memoir, Smoke Gets in Your Eyes: And Other Lessons from the Crematory. She also founded The Order of The Good Death, a non-profit advocacy group that seeks to "explore ways to prepare a death-phobic culture for their inevitable mortality." Suffice it to say, she’s become the next-gen poster girl for the industry. But her next act — the one she tapped Carvaly to partner in — could be even bigger.

The New Kids At The Morgue

Undertaking L.A. is an oxymoron; it's a brand-new type of funeral home that seeks to bring us back a few hundred years, before the commercialization of death. And it’s almost eerily simple. Doughty and Carvaly will come to the home of the deceased and walk the loved ones through how things were done in the past and still done all over the world: washing and dressing of the body, and an at-home wake and/or funeral. The survivors can be involved as much or as little as they’d like.

The body may stay in the home for people to properly mourn for a few days. Then, it’s taken to Undertaking L.A.’s co-op crematory or to a cemetery in Joshua Tree for a natural burial. (That's the closest secular cemetery that allows the practice.) The definition of a natural burial is a loose one, but basically, the body is wrapped in organic, unbleached linen or cotton, and laid to rest in a hand-dug grave. (You can opt for a biodegradable casket if you prefer.) There's no embalming, no calling 911, and no last visions of a loved one wearing too much makeup in a casket. For Carvaly, it’s one last act of kindness and dignity she gets to be a part of; for Doughty it’s her life’s work come to fruition. 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

While it might seem strange to us, the concept of Undertaking L.A. is far from novel. It’s how most of the world treats death, as well as certain religions within the U.S. So, when did it become a taboo thing that could only be handled by professionals? Blame Abraham Lincoln and the hundreds of thousands of soldiers who died during the Civil War. 

“When Lincoln was shot, his body was embalmed and went on a parade so everyone got to see him,” she explains. “It popularized embalming because people now understood this amazing technological advance; it lit the fire for embalming to be something that was acceptable. [In this case] it was necessary. But I think we’re coming back to a time where you don’t need to do that anymore."

(Embalming, for the record, is when the bodily fluids are replaced with a cocktail of preservatives and chemicals, like formaldehyde, by being pumped through a main artery.)


"You really have to have the strength of your convictions or you'll get swept up in the status quo,"

-CAITLIN DOUGHTY


This Civil War theory not only makes sense, but also offers insight into why the modern approach is better suited for some. Such as those who pass away far from home — or in situations where the body couldn't be kept at home, like a car accident. After all, a one-size death does not, in fact, fit all. But Doughty adds that there’s more to the growth of the funeral industry than that. When asked why the current system prevails, she’s quick to reply: Money. “Capitalism and the rise of cities,” Doughty says, adding that it’s left a undesirable impact on our connection with death.

“[At the beginning of] the 20th century, you had big hospitals come in and take the dying out of the home, you had funeral homes come in and take the dead bodies, and you had slaughterhouses and food plants take away the killing of animals. So every type of death and dying is now removed from society,” she says. Of course, with change comes both negative and positive effects. The positive includes the care hospitals can administer. The negative? According to the women, the fact that death is a specialized industry makes it all the more scary, mysterious, and abrupt — which they say deeply disrupts the grieving process. 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

Mourning: A Theory

“Because we shroud and protect society from death, you don’t understand what level of grief to feel for things, so everything is blanketed at a 10,” Carvaly says. “Because we make it such a taboo subject, there is no barometer.”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

“There are no academic studies on this, which is a shame, because I would love to point to something and say 'Yes, it’s proven!'" Doughty adds. "But anecdotally, everything I’ve seen is that when you’re involved in the death and you’re present and you let things unfold as they naturally unfold, and you see the small changes in the person, and you see the small changes in yourself over a couple days, you are much more ready to let go of the person and their body at the end of the process.”

Doughty speaks from personal experience. Her grandmother was the first death she handled as a funeral director. "It made me realize how hard it is to have services outside of the traditional death system," she says. "You really have to have the strength of your convictions or you'll get swept up in the status quo."

Luckily for those who don't feel the current system best, they have advocates in the duo. "The way we do it now when someone dies is you call the funeral home, and they come, day or night, to take the body away," Carvaly explains. "That’s it. The next time you see the body, it’s in a velvet-lined casket with makeup on and they’re wearing their suit. How can you properly work through grief when you’re trying to process why your dad looks like that? Why did they brush his hair that way? Why does it look like he has makeup on? My dad would never wear lipstick. Why is his neck scrunched up? He looks so unnatural.”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL WOOD

The alternative that Undertaking L.A. will provide? “If I was there with you, from beginning to end, and we dressed your dad together, and we laid your dad in his casket together, I think it would be easier. It would also give me the time to talk about everything with you,” Carvaly says. At this point in the conversation, you can tell she’s hitting her stride, her sweet spot; this is why she does what she does. “Yes, it’s more work, and it’s more emotionally draining than just taking a body and putting some embalming fluid in them, and putting them back in a casket. [In my job] you have to be willing to do that for people.”

 
 
Source: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2015/08/9...

Makeup in Lockup: Beauty, Power, & Danger in Women's Prisons

 
 

 Every morning, Candace Altman wakes up at 5:30 a.m. in a dark cell at Coffee Creek Correctional Facility in Oregon. She washes her face with cold water, combs her hair, pats on foundation, and lines her eyes with the black eyeliner she bought at the prison commissary. In her last two incarcerations, Altman would roll out of bed and throw her hair in a messy bun. But this third time, in prison for another round of drug charges and scheduled for release in two years, she vows to get to work and never return.

“If there’s anything I’m good at, it will be makeup,” Altman says as she dusts a shimmery shadow over another inmate’s eyelids. Altman, 34, is training for a degree in cosmetology as part of Coffee Creek’s rehabilitation program called Hair Design, a fully accredited program. Each day, Altman gets to the state-of-the-art cosmetology room at 6:30 a.m. to learn about the latest in aesthetics, from hair cutting and coloring to makeup, eyelash extensions, and gel manicures. A few years ago, the space was just a small classroom, but it recently quadrupled in size to accommodate its popularity and the prison’s overcrowded population.

Altman practices on other inmates, women who are glad to have the small reprieve from the monotonous reality of prison life. She’ll do this 10 hours per day, four days per week, for two years. By the time Altman gets out of prison in April 2020, she’ll have a cosmetology license and will be ready for a new career. "Before this, I had no job prospects, I had no skills, I didn't have anything like that, and this is the first time that I have been here and felt like I won't come back," Altman says. “We want to get out and be good moms, have careers, and be reintegrated... We don't want to be that big bad convict woman, you know what I mean?”

While opening a beauty school in a prison might seem like a pat response to the growing problem of mass incarceration, rethinking a prison experience that was designed for men with women in mind is an urgent matter. In just two decades, the number of women in prison has grown by 700% — bringing the latest count to over 220,000 nationwide— making women the fastest growing demographic going into the system. But programs like Hair Design are known to decrease recidivism and divert the cycle of incarceration.

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Which is why, increasingly, some prisons are leaning into beauty. “We all wear men's jeans and these terribly fitting blue T-shirts,” Altman says. “They take away all of your individuality, [so] taking care of yourself, doing your makeup, and fixing your hair, just makes you carry yourself better. It just helps your whole attitude about being here.”

The bigger issue, though, is that while Hair Design appears to be a success story, beauty programs are run independently in each prison — and advocates like Tammy Kennedy, the Coffee Creek program director, are few and far between. These programs are on the rise, but without a centralized leader, the disparity between programs is vast — and some opportunities are seemingly squandered.


Before this, I had no job prospects, I had no skills, I didn't have anything like that, and this is the first time that I have been here and felt like I won't come back.

CANDACE ALTMAN, INMATE AT COFFEE CREEK CORRECTIONAL FACILITY


Peeling back the layers of what beauty means to incarcerated American women shows more than stark inequality in rehabilitation programming; it uncovers a broken system, rife with corruption, that is ill equipped to handle a sudden, sharp spike in population. What starts with haircuts and lipstick quickly folds into a story of the exploitative criminal justice system and, for many, it all starts with access to self-care. Nowhere is this seen more clearly than in Central Florida.


A Tale Of Two Programs

The cosmetology room at another state-run prison, Lowell Correctional Institution in Ocala, Florida, is a shadow of its Oregonian counterpart.

Its resources are scant in comparison: Lines of mismatched chairs and shampoo bowls surround tables and bookshelves filled with VHS beauty videos and textbooks that appear to be decades old. There are no in-demand treatments being taught, like lash extensions or gel manicures. Students are limited to cutting, perming, and styling hair, but things like hair dye aren't allowed “for safety reasons,” the director reports. When we asked a prison spokesperson to expand on these safety concerns, they said that Florida Administrative Code prohibits prisoners from dyeing their hair for security and identification purposes. But the full clause indicates that this is specific to extreme dye jobs that would "call attention to the inmate or separate inmates into groups based upon style." Regardless, practicing on mannequin heads would be an easy, albeit more expensive, way around this.

Florida code prohibits inmates from having their hair styled or braided anywhere but the institutional beauty shop.

Florida code prohibits inmates from having their hair styled or braided anywhere but the institutional beauty shop.

We were told the prison taught makeup application and skin care, but during a visit to the program, the instructor (who prefers to be anonymous) couldn’t locate more than a few dusty eyeshadow palettes and two jars of cold cream from the back of a locked supply cabinet. It’s a downer for students, who know they’re not coming out prepared. “I'm grateful for the program, even though we don't [get] a license,” Ashley* says. “I mean, you can't even get out of prison and start work, but I mean ... I'm getting a lot further in here doing this class than I would probably [be] out there [in the general prison population].”

Because the curriculum is limited, inmates don’t learn what they need to finish their degrees, and are never offered testing opportunities — so they’re left to restart and pay for an accredited program outside of prison if they want to actually work as cosmetologists after being released. It’s a head start, but not much more. Of the women we spoke to at Lowell, interest in pursuing a career in beauty after being released was mixed.

It speaks to how, without oversight, the promise of a cosmetology program is at the mercy of the prison it’s housed in. In fact, between talking about haircuts and cold waves — a technique being taught to perm hair that uses a cold chemical wash over rollers — many took the opportunity to share their more-pressing concerns with us. While the Hair Design students in Oregon spoke to us about their hopes for the future, Florida’s students were more worried about their present, making it hard to focus on the little they’re learning.

Lowell cosmetology curriculum falls short of what the state requires, so licenses are not issued upon release.

Lowell cosmetology curriculum falls short of what the state requires, so licenses are not issued upon release.

“There's a lot of things that go on in [the prison] that the officers don't get to see,” Ashley* told us. “If you tell, or if you say anything... there's no protection really.” Another student shared her safety concerns: “You always have to watch your back wherever you go, even with the officers and with the inmates at the same time. It makes it really difficult.”

Compared to the conditions at Lowell, coming in for a cut is part self-care, part refuge, even with the limited services. “You come in here and you just take yourself in another world,” one older inmate getting a cut told us. “You wake up and just, I guess, expect the unexpected [in Lowell].” She’s been incarcerated for drug charges on and off since 1998 and says that while the inmate population has dramatically grown, conditions have only gotten worse.

While most inmates wouldn’t fully express themselves under the supervision of our prison escort, a woman getting a haircut on the last day of her sentence did. “How the officers will talk to you at some times is a struggle, and just knowing that you have to bite your tongue because you can't talk back,” she says.

Lowell inmates say the cosmetology program is a refuge from prison life.

Lowell inmates say the cosmetology program is a refuge from prison life.

It’s not just the cosmetology students at Lowell — the general prison population suffers from this program being limited, too. Oregon’s Hair Design provides a beauty salon and supply store, where inmates can order basics, like shampoo, skin-care products, and makeup, through the program for low prices. This isn’t offered at Lowell. It’s something that Kennedy has seen change the trajectory of an inmate’s time at Coffee Creek. “A lot of self esteem is lost when women come to prison,” Kennedy says. “Being able to color their hair, do their nails, and those types of things help to restore a little bit of that.”

Former inmates at Lowell say that providing this access would help combat the supply-and-demand issues happening for beauty and wellness products on the inside in Florida, which has been heavily documented in a series of exposés by The Miami Herald.

The bottom line seems to be that because beauty and self-care have been so heavily ingrained in our culture, the function of makeup, perfume, and hair products can empower inmates to feel like themselves again — or leave them in danger of exploitation. Because they so deeply want to hold onto themselves in a place where they have little control of their destiny.


The Power Of Beauty Products

Former Lowell inmate Natalie Hall, 40, who was released in 2017, was no stranger to contraband beauty, from dyeing her hair with stolen peroxide from the medical department, to applying colored pencils on her eyes in lieu of eyeshadow. Sometimes she was sent to confinement for it, but she says it was worth it. “To wake up and do your hair and have a little bit of makeup, or maybe some contraband perfume, was everything,” Hall says. She’s even made bootleg fragrance by soaking magazine fragrance samples in small jars of water in her cell. “You let it sit for like 10 days and you'd have perfume for a week,” she says. “It was nice. We would give it to each other as gifts for birthdays or Christmas or things like that.”

Former Lowell inmate Natalie Hall shows reporter Lexy Lebsack the colored pencils inmates use for eyeshadow.

Former Lowell inmate Natalie Hall shows reporter Lexy Lebsack the colored pencils inmates use for eyeshadow.

On the outside, it’s hard to understand why someone would even risk getting in trouble for bootleg perfume or colored pencil eyeliner, but former Lowell inmate Amanda Hunter, 26, who was released in 2016, says that there’s a mental shift that happens when you are denied access to everyday essentials you rely upon. “It changes you into a survivor, I guess. It makes you more predatory,” she says. “It becomes your primary goal to always see that these things are taken care of. Even if you have to ration other things, or sell other things… you will find a way to get it.”

Without access to the products the inmates crave, they’re left open to exploitation by the same guards tasked with watching them. “They'll definitely use your needs against you,” Hunter says.

Hall saw this firsthand. She describes life on the inside as a forced barter economy between inmates and guards: sexual favors, making eye contact with guards while they watched you shower, and flirting could be leveraged for contraband, like makeup, and necessities, like toilet paper, soap, and tampons.

“If a girl's performing sexual favors for an officer, he would bring her in colored pencils, lip gloss, things that she could use for makeup or to sell,” Hall says. But it’s more than sexual favors that are sold for beauty on the inside. Hunter claims that officers would bribe inmates with canteen dollars (to buy shampoo or skin care) if they assaulted inmates the guards disliked. “‘Man, I’ll give you canteen dollars if you beat up that girl’, they’d say,” Hunter alleges.


A lot of self esteem is lost when women come to prison. Being able to color their hair, do their nails, and those types of things help to restore a little bit of that.

TAMMY KENNEDY, PROGRAM DIRECTOR AT COFFEE CREEK CORRECTIONAL FACILITY


This was the secret, underground economy that ran on a currency of self-care that Hunter and Hall both allege was rampant at Lowell — and they say that participating wasn’t always a choice. “When I turned down the guards [for sex] I was thrown in confinement or my stuff was torn apart, my pictures [of family] ripped up, sheets stepped on, contraband taken away,” Hall says. “My life made a living hell.”

When asked about the former Lowell inmates' allegations, a prison spokesperson issued a statement saying “physical and sexual assault are never tolerated by the Department,” adding that since 2015, the prison installed more cameras in housing units, as well as audio recording in all special housing units, and is currently in the process of implementing 40 additional cameras within its facilities. They also made changes to their video storage capacities. Any allegations of physical and sexual misconduct are “aggressively investigated” within two business days and subject to dismissal and even arrest. “The Department is committed to providing inmates with a safe environment, free from sexual abuse, sexual battery, and sexual harassment.”

It’s not an uncommon problem. “When you're incarcerating so many people who have a history of trauma and PTSD, you're creating circumstances that are just right for all kinds of terrible things to happen,” says Beth Schwartzapfel, staff writer from The Marshall Project, a nonprofit, nonpartisan prison watchdog group. “When guards have so much power, and the inmates are so powerless, it's just a corrupting situation.”

Even Coffee Creek, with its model program, has had its own problems through the years, too, including a sex scandal in 2016, a sexual abuse lawsuit in 2017, and an untimely death linked to limited access to flu shots earlier this year.

Supplies at Coffee Creek's cosmetology program are closely monitored by staff.

Supplies at Coffee Creek's cosmetology program are closely monitored by staff.

Here’s where the need for programming comes back in. While it certainly cannot solve the problems plaguing the criminal justice system, it can help. By investing in cosmetology, you increase the supply of these valuable products, therefore offsetting the demand and thus, the ones who hold the power because of it.

Skeptics might not approve of tax dollars and grants going for programs like this, but it turns out that for every dollar spent on in-prison programming, five more are saved in lower recidivism rates, according to the Council of Economic Advisers.

Popv reminds us that programming lowers the chance of returning to prison, but it also makes for a better experience inside. “It also increases the likelihood that they don't have behavior issues inside,” she says. “These programs increase the likelihood they make good choices for themselves, both inside the facility and outside.”

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At Coffee Creek, 89 women have successfully graduated from the Hair Design program and reintegrated into society — and only six have ever returned to prison. In fact, the Hair Design program automatically reduces the chances of returning to prison to a third of the national average, according to Kennedy, who keeps a binder of her success stories from the past 16 years on her desk to encourage current students. Hair Design is among the best such programs in the country thanks to Kennedy’s dedication to apply for education grants to supplement state funding through Coffee Creek’s rehabilitation budget, as well as a partnership with Portland Community College, which oversees the curriculum.

Beauty is just one piece of a complex puzzle, but it’s one that can change lives. "It's a privilege that everybody is excited about," Altman says about Hair Design’s impact at Coffee Creek. “It's not a matter of deserving these things, it's a matter of rehabilitating people, giving them hope, and keeping them from continuing the same cycles, and coming back."

*Names have been changed and some last names have been omitted to protect the subjects' safety and privacy.

 
 
Source: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2018/06/2...