Meet Instagram's Most Controversial New Makeup Artist

 
 
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

In real life, we apply our lipstick within the lines. Maybe we'll attempt an "artfully smudged" look, if we're feeling informal and kinda pouty. But a new lip trend is making us rethink those limits — by totally obscuring them with color and shine. The dripping, drenched effect isn't the work of Kylie Jenner, like you might expect. It's 31-year-old Los Angeles makeup artist Vlada Haggerty whom we have to thank for the pillowy, provocative style. But she's so much more than a dripping lip...

Haggerty grew up playing with her mom's makeup in Kiev, Ukraine. In fact, breaking into her mother's cosmetic bag and surprising her (not in a good way) with a face covered in red blush is her earliest memory. After spending years doing her friends' faces and wading through unfulfilling office jobs, Haggerty decided to follow her instincts and enroll in cosmetology school. Then, she headed west.

Arriving in the Bay Area of Northern California, Haggerty landed wedding gigs and a stint at Sephora, but it wasn't until she migrated to L.A. with her husband that it all came together. That's when she devoted herself to macro beauty photography — tight crops of detailed work, screaming with color and texture on screen.

Using a Canon 7D, a soft box, and a beauty dish, Haggerty started experimenting in her apartment. "I never thought it would go somewhere; I was just having fun," she says. The breakthrough: Haggerty began posting her work to Instagram, at least once a day for five months, and it took off like wildfire. "It’s such an amazing platform that's given me so many opportunities," she says. "Of course, it also has its problems. But that comes with the territory."

Haggerty isn't kidding. Nor is she afraid to speak her mind about her work, and the work of other makeup artists that's circulated without permission or credit. The question of creative ownership — and the rampant failure to respect it — has manifested as a watermark on Haggerty's images, something she sees as an eyesore. "I hate watermarks, and honestly, I shouldn't have to use them," she says.

Her push to validate her photography has brought out some haters, more than a few trolls, and lots of hurtful comments. It seems that the cerebral question, "What is art?" can inspire some pretty lowbrow remarks. But Haggerty's handiwork tapped right into our beauty-loving brains (and all the rosy thoughts in them), so we visited her studio.

There's no shortage of jaw-dropping macro looks on Haggerty's Instagram, so when we teamed up on an L.A. beauty shoot, we took a slightly different approach. Fret not, her infamous rose-gold drip lip is represented, but expect to see it, and four more looks, in a different light. Ahead, you'll view Haggerty's work through a different lens, slightly pulled back — but just as experimental.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

The Fade

There's a trick to Haggerty's take on the ombré trend — by far the most wearable look from our shoot. "I prepped the lip with concealer," she says. "Just dab it all over the lip, but don't powder it." This creates a canvas that helps your lip color adhere better.

Next came a deep-burgundy shade that Haggerty applied with a fluffy eyeshadow brush to the center of the lips. "Blend it out to the edges, over the concealer," she says. While they're beautiful when matte — and far more practical for real life — topping the lips with gloss is an @VladaMUA signature. "Gloss makes every beauty editorial better," Haggerty jokes.

Melt Cosmetics Lipstick In Dark Room, $19, available at Melt Cosmetics; My Kit Co. My Defining Crease Brush 1.3, $25.01, available at My Kit Co; Theory Brixmill Admiral Crepe Blazer, $445, available at Bloomingdale's.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

No surprise here: Haggerty is a liquid-lipstick devotee, but her favorite brand may not be one you've tried. "Jeffree Star's lipsticks are crazy-pigmented, and you can get a super-sharp line if you use a thin, angled brush," she says. Which also saves her time. "I like to make my work as perfect as possible, so I don’t have to spend a lot of time retouching," she says.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Haggerty's kit is stocked with every gloss you could ever need, from thin and liquid-y (perfect for drips, which you'll see ahead) to thick with a high-shine finish, like she used here.

For the final step, Haggerty topped model Ella's lips with a single coat of Mehron Glosstone in Clear, a theatrical-makeup brand you'll see used more than once in this story. "It stays put and creates a great vinyl finish," she says.

Mehron Glosstone Pro in Clear, $11.95, available at Mehron.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Blue Steel

For this look, Haggerty channeled a macro trend that's splashed all over social media: a colorful splatter that's part Jackson Pollock, part graffiti art. And while it may appear to have been thrown together, it's actually quite precise.

While the coat of blue Jeffree Star Cosmetics Lipstick in Jawbreaker is stunning on its own, the tiny dabs and smears of various colors really ramp up the effect.

Just before shooting the look, Haggerty layered a deep blue called Blue Velvet on the corners of Ella's mouth for depth, while the swipe of blue on her lids was a creative impulse halfway through the shoot. "Gives it a little something," Haggerty says. It does, indeed.

Jeffree Star Cosmetics Velour Liquid Lipstick in Blue Velvet, Jawbreaker, and Breakfast at Tiffany's, $18, available at Jeffree Star Cosmetics; Nyx Liquid Suede Lipstick in Tea and Cookies, $7, available at Nyx Cosmetics; Nyx White Liquid Liner, $7, available at Nyx Cosmetics; COS Draped Layer Dress, $125, available at COS; Lizzie Mandler Petit Square Huggies, $625, available at Lizzie Mandler.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

The Signature Drip

Haggerty knew she was on to something as soon as she snapped one of her most popular looks. "I thought it would get me a lot of likes, but I didn't think there would be drama," she tells us.

Don't get her wrong: Haggerty loves to see her work shared in any capacity — but with the proper credit. Not much to ask when you consider the time and effort it takes to style just one of these shoots.

This look starts simply — just Mehron metallic pigment and inexpensive lip gloss, since it tends to be thinner and better at dripping, Haggerty says. The technique, however, is all about timing.

"When I put it on it looks uneven and goopy, but if you leave it alone it will settle," she says. On set, Haggerty applied a thick layer in the makeup chair, then really gobbed it on once Ella got in front of the camera. "I use excessive amounts just to make that super-liquid metal look," she says. Then, it's a game of luck — and catching the product before it hits your shirt.

Sally Girl Mini Squeeze Tube Lip Gloss Minty Fresh, $.99, available at Sally Beauty; Mehron Metallic Powder in Copper, $9.95, available at Mehron; Camilla and Marc Inhale Top, $299, available at Camilla and Marc; Tiffany Kunz Ball Stud, $110, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Medium Balance Ring, $720, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Balance Bangle, $1,440, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Bracelet 5, $87, available at Tiffany Kunz; Tiffany Kunz Balance 3, $87, available at Tiffany Kunz.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

"At first, people thought it was strange, and it is kind of strange," Haggerty admits. "But there is something about capturing that frozen moment that you can keep forever."

Amid the praise, Haggerty is quick to say that she is not the creator of the dripping-lip editorial look. "It’s not my contribution," she says. "People have done it before. My original inspiration to do lip art came from a British makeup artist named Karla Powell."

But Haggerty has definitely put her own spin on everything, and she isn't stopping at a drip. Lately, she's been experimenting with other metallic mixtures to get different effects.

This gold rendition
, for example, is not the result of garden-variety ingredients. "It's actually pigment mixed with a cucumber mask," she says. "You know, the kind that comes in the pouches." It did not, however, peel off to reveal smoother lips. "It just kind of crumbed and flaked off," she says with a laugh.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Two-Sided

This glitter lip is the only one that Haggerty's ever worn out on the town. In fact, she doesn't wear much makeup. "I think that's because I get my creative fix with my art," she says.

To create this high-shine, glitter effect, Haggerty first applied a coat of matte lipstick from Nyx. Then, she pressed on a bit of glitter with her finger while the formula was still tacky. "I've tried to do it with a lip brush or a shadow brush, but it flakes away," she says. A coat of NARS gloss on the bottom lip tops things off.

Nyx Liquid Suede Lipstick in Vintage, $7, available at Nyx Cosmetics; NARSLarger Than Life Lip Gloss in Rouge Tribal, $26, available at NARS; Graftobian Powdered Glitter in Goth Garnet, $5.49, available at Graftobian; French Connection Whisper Light Fitted Dress, $198, available at Bloomingdale's; Tiffany Kunz Petite Origin Studs, $260, available at Tiffany Kunz.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

In the Wild West of beauty editorials — i.e. Instagram — the question eventually arises: What is stealing, and what can be called inspiration?

It's a sensitive subject for Haggerty, who has been bullied online for calling out celebs who post her work without credit, most recently Britney Spears. "All I got from that was a lot of really, really hateful people on my page," Haggerty says. "Grown adults calling me the 'c' word and saying I was ungrateful; it was shocking."


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Crystal City

Haggerty's work often features nail decals and crystals, which she affixes with eyelash glue after a coat of matte lipstick. "I have no patience for tweezers," she says. Instead, she puts a dab of Embellie Gellie, which you can find at a craft store, on the end of a makeup brush (not the bristle side), picks up the decal or stone, and places it on the lip.

Haggerty notes that it isn't impossible to leave the house with a Swarovski pout (though it's perhaps even less wearable than a glitter top lip). "Although it would be super-inconvenient to talk, or eat, or smile, or function in general," she jokes. "Minor details!"

Anastasia Beverly Hills Liquid Lipstick in Blush and Pure Hollywood, $20, available at Anastasia Beverly Hills; Mehron Glosstone Pro in Coral Reef, $11.95, available at Mehron.


PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID CORTES.

Our final question was one we couldn't help but think about all day: Does it feel liberating or crushing to wipe away all that good work after you get the shot? Luckily for us, Haggerty has spent just as much time thinking about this. "It’s so satisfying to wipe it off," she immediately fires back. "Shooting is hard. If you close your mouth, it’s going to ruin everything. So as much as you're thinking, Oh, check me out, you cannot wait to wipe it off."

Maje dress.

 

How To Style L.A.'s Most Popular Haircut 3 Ways In 3 Days

 
 
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY CRANNA.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY CRANNA.

Ladies with slightly messy waves are everywhere you turn in this city. It makes sense; it's a perfect look for summer, and it practically feels like summer year-round in L.A. If there's one cut that truly epitomizes this ubiquitous style, it's the delightfully bedheady, and slightly beachy long bob made famous by one of our city's raddest hairstylists, Anh Co Tran.

You've probably seen Tran's work on Instagram, Pinterest, and pretty much all over the web. If you're like us, you've been left with one resounding question:How do I score this look at home? To find out, we spent a day with Tran at his beautiful L.A. salon, Ramirez/Tran, to learn all of the celeb stylist's favorite tips and tricks. The best part? The textured waves you'll create here can become a base for Day Two and Day Three styles that are just as appealing — without ever lathering up!

Lending her enviable head of hair for this how-to demonstration is one of the first adopters of the cut, Alaina Etue. An L.A. It Girl in her own right, as the aesthetic director for Genetic Denim, Etue is the brains behind the brand's shoots, styling, and even some of its designs.

Before we proceed with this tutorial, there's one caveat: You really do need a choppy long bob to pull off these looks. (If you're updating your 'do, ask your hairstylist to go slightly shorter in back, with a soft undercut and lots of shaggy layers.) Thick hair? Cool. Curly locks? No problem. Just follow our suggested tweaks throughout!

Bookmark this page and get your product shopping list ready, because this may just be the coolest, easiest hair routine, ever.


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Day 1: Lived-In Texture

Start with clean, straight, dry hair. If you have fine, thick, curly, or coarse locks, you'll need to blow your hair out before you begin. Add in a dollop of mousse to boost volume if your hair is fine, or your go-to serum or oil for a smoother blowout on curly or coarse tresses.


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Grab a 1.5-inch curling iron, like the Hot Tools Big Bumper Curling Iron. (You can also use a wand, like John Frieda's Wavy Curls Iron, which Tran notes is easier for beginners to maneuver.) The goal is to create loose ringlets, without curling the roots or the ends of the hair. To do so, divide your locks into 1-inch sections and curl your hair in alternating directions without clamping down on the ends. (If you're using a wand, simply wrap your hair around the iron and hold the ends with your fingers.)


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Continue to curl 1-inch sections all over your head, allowing the strands to cool without disrupting them. Again, be sure that the ends of your hair are not touched by the heat, which will make the look far too polished. (Notice Tran has left the tips of Alaina 's hair out of his iron's clamp.)

Allow all your curls to cool fully before moving onto the next step.


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Grab a can of texturizing spray or dry shampoo — Tran prefers Oribe's Dry Texture Spray — and blast the roots of your hair, holding the spray 12 inches away from your head. Go section by section, and slowly layer the spray into your locks, avoiding the ends.

If your hair is processed, dry, or naturally curly, you'll benefit from a texture spray with a touch of nourishing oil instead, like Oribe's Apres Beach Spray. Simply swap it in and follow the steps above.


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Next, shake out the curls! Using your hands, go in and gently massage your roots and scrunch the length of hair, to muss the curl patterns and make them look effortless.


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Warm a dime-sized amount of styling cream — Tran swears by Leonor Greyl's Eclat Naturel — between your palms like you would a hand cream, then finger comb your hair back into place. (This technique thins out the product perfectly.) Smooth the ends with any leftover product to keep them frizz-free and smooth.

Hair that is naturally curly can also benefit from a heavy misting of anti-humidity hairspray, like Garnier Fructis Style Anti-Humidity Hairspray.


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And, you're done! But, don't you dare wash your hair tomorrow! Try our next style instead...

Alaina is wearing M.A.C. Lipstick in Ruby Woo.


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Day 2: The ‘90s Swoop

You can create a rad deep side parting and smooth braid on Day Two hair. Or, if you're working on clean hair, simply start with our Day One routine, then move on to this style. If your hair got limp or frizzy overnight, just mist it with water and spot treat with a brush and blowdryer.


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To begin, lift random sections of your hair and mist with your dry texture spray from slide 3. This soaks up oil and adds fullness and texture.

For even more volume, simply follow this tip from Tran: Massage your roots with a Tangle Teezer comb before and after adding product to build body.


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Create a deep side part, then braid a 2-inch section on the part side into a small, tight braid. You can adjust the size of this braid depending on the thickness of your hair. It will look slightly different for everyone.


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Use a fine-tooth comb to tease the ends of your braid. This will hold the plait in place without an elastic.


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Use two bobby pins to secure your hair by adding one over the end of the braid, then adding a second over the first pin to make an X shape. If you have fine hair, simply mist your bobby pins with hairspray for a firmer hold.


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Now, wasn't that easy?! But, you're not done yet. Your Day Three hair how-to is next!

Alaina is wearing M.A.C. Lipstick in Diva.


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Day 3: Twisted Knots

Dirty, greasy, or just plain limp hair can be easily twisted into cool mini-buns that work as well on a Sunday afternoon as they do a with a black-tie dress. Of course, you can do this on clean hair, too, just build your base using the steps from Day One.


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To begin, brush your hair with a boar or nylon brush to distribute any hair oils and leftover product through the hair. Tran uses Mason Pearson's Handy Mixture Brush, or try Sonia Kashuk's Hair Brush for a similar finish.


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Next, back brush your hair to give the strands more grip. Use a light touch and work slowly to avoid knots and snarls.


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Finger comb any tangles away, then blast your hair with more dry texture spray or dry shampoo for added volume and grip.


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Section your hair into four parts: two in the back and two in the front. Don't worry about the parts being perfect, you won't see them at the end. Twist your first section into a small bun an inch or two above the nape of your neck, stopping to drive a bobby pin into the bun after every rotation. Once you finish, add more pins to lock your bun in place.


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Repeat on the next section, creating a bun right next to the first one.


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Now, on to the front. Lightly twist the first front section backward, hold it halfway between your ear and the first bun, and pin in place. Pinning before twisting allows you to keep the front loose and relaxed, and the bun snug and in place.


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Now, twist your hair into a bun, pinning as you go for a secure finish.


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It's okay if your bun is messy — it shouldn't look perfect!


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Repeat on the other side...


Pull out any short layers in the front to frame your face.


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And, you're done! Here is the view of your chic mini-buns from the back...


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..and the front!

Alaina is wearing M.A.C. Lipstick in Diva patted on with her finger for a light, stained finish. And, in case you were wondering, Anja Burton at the Ramirez/Tran salon is the stylist behind Alaina's hair color.


 

Is Hollywood's "Sci-Fi Bob" Trend A Nod To The Future Of Feminism?

 
 
PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

Kim, Chrissy, Selena, Bella — it seems as if every Hollywood "It girl" has turned into a clone of the last over the past few months, debuting nearly identical blunt bobs in quick succession. It seems odd, since being unique is a major key to maintaining stardom (and no one wants a new cut to match the woman dating their ex), so how the hell did this happen? Turns out, it might go deeper than just what's en vogue.

The look is perfectly timed for our uncertain political climate: a cut that feels sharp and strong, with a futuristic finish that's as no-BS as it gets. Is it a nod to feminism? The anti-damsel in distress? For those of the belief that life imitates art, it's both.

In La La Land, character archetypes abound. The woman with long, soft waves gently tucked behind one ear? She deserves the leading man. Big, frizzy curls? Someone get that woman a makeover! (Just how problematic this all is is a whole other story.) So what does a sharp bob convey to Hollywood insiders? To start, they call it a "sci-fi bob."

This beauty trope says you're sharp and smooth, and it's often paired with short bangs to create a helmet-like shield of strength. It's used to depict a futuristic woman who is strong, powerful, and has reached gender equality — or is fervently fighting for it. Some believe that popular culture has programmed us to think of this style as progressive, rebellious, and ready for anything, even zero gravity. Think: The Fifth Element, Star Trek, and Aeon Flux. The stylists who are doling out these styles for the A-listers off-screen didn't disagree, either, when we asked them to weigh in on the trend.

Ahead, everything you need to know about Hollywood's subtle, but powerful, resistance cut.


The Haircut

“For years, there was a Victoria's Secret, 'pretty girl' hair thing, but in some ways that is shifting," says Jon Reyman, editorial hairstylist and co-owner of Spoke & Weal salons. "Women are having really strong, empowered conversations. I think it's about self-expression. I think there's a punk side to all of this, like a 'fuck you, damn the man' kind of thing, which I like."

For Reyman, it's been a long time coming."There was a period where people were trying to do this a couple years ago, but it didn't really take," he says. "Normally, I like movement, texture, and softness, but I think this one-length bob is right on for right now." His followers agree: His posts average a few hundred likes; this one got over 1,700.

As for the cut, all our experts like something a bit different. Reyman prefers a slight A-line (shorter in back than front) that's totally blunt. And whatever you do, don't pick up a curling iron, or you'll ruin the look. "Either straight or natural is the way," he says. "Less is more."


Another of our favorites — which we've raved about before — comes from L.A. hairstylist Sal Salcedo. He turns out gorgeous cuts daily, but it's this chop that he calls a favorite for the exact reasons we love it, too. In fact, he's very passionate about the role hair can play in equality.

"More than anything, it's a sign of empowerment and freedom," Salcedo says about the current short chop trend sweeping L.A. "Women are taking charge of the way their roles are being set and also changing the expectations from society. Machismo has been imposed unconsciously, and so naturally, without us even realizing it. It's time for change — and I'm all about it!"

For him, shaping trends has been a chance to even things up, if only on the head. "My goal is to make guy's hair longer and girl's hair shorter to bring about equality and erase the stigma of roles," he adds."Hair is our connection to society and with it, we let society know what we think." He sees it as mirroring a past era steeped in change: "I've been comparing this trend to the roaring twenties," he continues. "More and more woman are changing the perception of what women's hair should be like. Slowly but surely, we are showing the world that we are all equal."

As for the cut, ask for a short A-line with invisible layers only if needed. The trick to the bang is simple: "The fringe should be above the eyebrows and get slightly longer at the temples so that it blends right into the length."


Justine Marjan got her start under Jen Atkin, so it's no wonder she's become a major fan of the chop. (Atkin's given the cut to half her client roster, which you'll see ahead.) She gave this pristine version to former Miss Universe Olivia Culpo.

To score the cut, ask for blunt bob that's "below the chin and jawline, but above the shoulders with a very clean, blunt finish," she says. "For the most flattering finish, the angle of the bob should be similar to the angle of your jawline and the length will depend on your face shape." Bonus? "The blunt ends make the hair look healthier and fuller," she adds.

Now, you may be feeling the fire of feminism, but ease in when it comes to expressing it on your head if you're making a big change. "Make sure you go to a stylist you trust to take your hair short and always start longer," she says. "It’s better to gradually take your hair short to a length you know you’ll love than to go too short and regret it."

Keep clicking for a look at the celebs rocking the sci-fi cut right now, then tell us what you think in the comment section below.


The latest star to get the chop is Nina Dobrev, who debuted the textbook sci-fi cut on hairstylist Riawna Capri's Instagram.


PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

PHOTO: KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE.

Selena Gomez's cut is one of the longest of the bunch, paired with killer shine and a dramatic A-line for the Met Gala this spring.


Kerry Washington makes a case for adding bends and waves.


Bella Hadid's been wearing her new sci-fi bob a variety of ways, proving there's no shortage of inspiring ways to get futuristic.


So smooth, we thought it had to be a wig. Get it, Kim Kardashian.


Sharp and slicked back, we can't think of a more badass way for Serena Williams to wear her blunt bob.


The sci-fi bob is normally worn straight, but don't get it twisted: There are no rules. Take your cue from Olivia Munn and sport it textured and messy, too.


Prefer to ease in? Follow Chrissy Teigen's lead and go a little longer at first to avoid an oh, shit! moment. Paired with a dramatic A-line, this long lob gives the illusion of a shorter length.


Hairstylist Riawna Capri gave Nina Dobrev this chop months ago — and we still love it.


A sharp side part is giving Vanessa Hudgen's new cut major life.


You already knew that Taraji P. Henson can do no wrong.



 

"Daith" Piercings Are L.A.'s Most Surprising Beauty Trend

 
 
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“If you’re only going to have three piercings right now, I would do your lobes, your tragus, and your daith,” L.A.’s "It" piercer Brian Keith Thompson told me on the phone this week. “The daith is really popular right now — and [they] look cool all together.”

And if this piercing oracle says it's true, you better believe it. The Body Electric owner/artist is responsible for constellation piercings, L.A.’s obsession with nipple adornment, and even the latest uptick in the labret (the center of the bottom lip) and the philtrum (he just did FKA Twigs’, but more on that later. Did we mention his client list is stacked with major A-listers?)

So, what are the raddest piercings you need to know about for 2017? When it comes to ears, the daith, rook, forward helix, and tragus are in hot demand — often in artful groupings of three or more. Facial piercing trends are shifting too, with lip piercings becoming more popular and the nostril slowly usurping the septum. (There's a sentence we never thought we'd write.)

As for body? Feel free to blame Beyoncé for this next one. “There was a lull, but we are seeing the navel come back even stronger now,” Thompson says. “Very delicate, thin, dainty rings are big.” No surprise here: The nipple is still huge, too: “I thought that it was going to die down, but I can’t keep barbells in stock right now!” he reports.

Ahead, Thompson walks us through the piercings and combinations that L.A.’s loving.


Behold: The daith. According to Thompson, it’s having a huge moment in L.A. — and for good reason. Not only does it feel incredibly cool and fresh, but because it's tucked further into your ear than the helix (and less prone to bumping or jostling), many find that it heals better.


“A tragus and a daith look so good together,” Thompson says about his current favorite combo. Here, his client sports multiple lobe piercings featuring the duo.


Thompson notes that regardless of trends, it's important to find a look that works for you. Here, a helix is accented with a rook, a placement right above the daith. (Does anyone else feel like they're playing chess RN?)

His only rule? "You don’t want to do a daith and rook, or either of those with a conch, because it gets a little crowded."


Here, the daith is paired with four lobe piercings to create an eclectic look.


“Constellation piercings are still very big right now,” Thompson told us. Personally, he prefers groupings of three, like these two helix piercings and lobe. (See tons of rad constellation piercings here.)


This look shows how easy it is to incorporate multiple small piercings onto your ear without any overcrowding. The secret? Keep all the jewelry dainty.


Hoops are far more popular than studs right now. “[Hoops] are flying off the shelves,” Thompson says. “I have girls coming in and doing hoops all the way up their ears.”


It's really popular for people to wear a few tiny hoops in their upper-ear cartilage piercings and small studs up the lobe.


The forward helix is also big right now, and looks incredibly cool when paired with just the lobe or outer helix, he says


“It's crazy how popular the nipple is right now,” Thompson says. “Last night, for example, I did a group of three girls — it’s still a big thing.”


Thanks to the growing popularity of multiple piercings, people are becoming far more educated on how many are possible in each sitting. “People now understand they shouldn’t be getting five or six piercings at one time," he says. His best advice? “Do a couple, let them heal, then come back — it’s far easier to heal three piercings than seven.”


“A stud in the nostril is more popular among those that work in a professional environment, while hoops are a little more artistic," Thompson says, adding that hoops are far more popular for those doing several piercings. “I am seeing a lot of people pairing them up, doing multiples or one on each side," he says.


“I just did a really cool conch with a little baguette from [jewelry designer] Maria Tash,” Thompson says about this piercing. “Hoops are definitely more popular for the conch, but studs are big, too.”

Suspender earrings are also having a moment, and Thompson loves the ones from jewelry designer Smith & Mara.


Thompson always gravitates towards piercings in numerals of three, like this simple helix, lobe, and tragus trio.


FKA Twigs recently flew from London to L.A. just for Thompson to pierce her philtrum. “She said, ‘I can’t believe I came all the way from London just to do this’,” he says with a laugh. Of course, we understand why — the facial piercing had to be perfect.


While this trend might not be for everyone, Thompson predicts that it will have a huge moment this year. Think of it as the cool new Marilyn lip piercing.


“I love the septum on girls, because you can hide it,” Thompson says. “If you’re going to go see Grandma, you can just tuck that shit up."

Here, Bella Thorne shows off the septum piercing — just one of many piercings that she’s gotten from Thompson.


Introducing: the two new facial piercing trends collide in this simple, chic look.


Fair warning from Thompson: The labret trend is not for everyone. “She looks like a badass with it, but it takes a definite type of style to pull it off. And it's tough to heal,” Thompson says. “It’s right in the center of your lip and you’re talking, you’re eating — there is a lot going on and you need to be patient.”

Pro tip: You can get a similar effect with gold liquid liner before you commit


Finally, a chic new way to cover up old gauge holes.


Way cooler than the pant chains people used to wear in high school...


When everyone else opts for a cuff or hoop, go for the stud.


Want more piercing inspiration and tips from Thompson — including how to make your new holes heal faster? Right this way.

 

Everything You Need To Know About Micro-Needling

 
 
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Fun fact: The most effective anti-aging treatments rarely come with affordable price tags. The current in-office gold standards — laser treatments, injectables, Thermage — are costly, and even a trip to your aesthetician for something like an acid peel or microdermabrasion can hit your bank account hard. Well, what if there were something that could both stimulate change in the skin and make the products you splurge on work even better? And what if we told you that you could use it at home?

You may have heard of micro-needlingand wondered what all the fuss is about. But unlike many skin-care fads, this one is seemingly lasting the test of time — 15 years and counting — and for good reasons.

Intrigued? We are, too. For guidance on the subject, we consulted two pros — board-certified dermatologist Karyn Grossman, MD, whose patients include Gwyneth Paltrow, Molly Sims, and Linda Evangelista; and Kerry Benjamin, Hollywood aesthetician and creator of her own line of products and tools, Stacked Skincare, which includes one of the only aesthetician-created dermarollers.

Ahead, everything you need to know to determine whether micro-needling is right for you.


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So what, exactly, is micro-needling? Also referred to as dermarolling, this is a treatment that can be done at home, by an aesthetician, or in your dermatologist's office. It gets its name from the tool used, a dermaroller, which looks a bit like a miniature paint roller, except it's covered with tiny needles.

Before you freak out, know that the needles on the at-home devices shouldn't be painful, since they're much smaller than those used in a derm's office. (But more on that later.) Micro-needling has been around since the early 2000s, and works on a similar principle as laser treatments.

When rolled over the skin, the dermaroller does two things. First, it allows for better penetration of products, thanks to tiny pinpricks that work almost like canals, allowing your products — often serums, since they're the most viscous — to reach deeper into the skin. Second, it creates micro-injuries, which tell your brain to kick into repair mode. This prompts your body to send collagen to the epidermis, which, as you probably already know, is an important building block of healthy, radiant skin. More collagen, better skin.


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You may have read online that dermarolling can magically cure acne scars, fine lines, and brown spots — and even stretch marks and cellulite. There is some truth to this, however, it's important to understand that the benefits you can realistically expect to achieve depend upon the size of the needles on your roller, Dr. Grossman explains.

Dermarollers used at home or in an aesthetician's office are normally between .2 and 1 mm. They help to even skin texture and pigmentation — but don't expect much change in scars. "[Personally], I don’t think that home micro-needling will get rid of your acne scars or stretch marks," Dr. Grossman says.

The biggest benefit of at-home rolling is simple: The deeper a product can get into the skin, the more effective it can be. The science on rollers under 1 mm is lacking, Dr. Grossman reminds us, but many aestheticians swear by the efficacy of shorter needles.

In fact, Benjamin calls at-home dermarolling one of the "most powerful and effective ways to stop early signs of aging and prevent new fine lines and wrinkles from occurring," thanks to the uptick in collagen production. She adds it to nearly every facial she gives, and sends her clients home with a roller of their own to use with their favorite serums.

"With the right corrective serums, micro-needling will brighten your skin to create a dewy, youthful glow that you just can’t get from products [alone]," Benjamin says. "If you are going to purchase serums, you should definitely micro-needle at home [to make them more effective]."

Dermarollers used in a dermatologist's office take results to the next level. Since the needles can be as long as 3mm, you can expect the above results, plus improvement in acne scars, stretch marks, and fine lines. To wit: In a 2009 study, nearly 100% of people studied saw marked improvement in their acne-scarring after several professional treatments using a 1.5-mm roller.

But cellulite? Don't hold your breath. "I have people ask about [micro-needling] for cellulite, but cellulite is a much deeper issue than you’re going to be able to address [with this tool]," Dr. Grossman says.


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Like with all things in life, there are risks. The first thing to know is that you should absolutely, positively, never use this tool on skin that is irritated, inflamed, has active eczema, or — and this is the big one — is broken out.

"Never roll over any active acne — ever!" Benjamin warns. "You can spread bacteria around your face and cause serious health issues. If you have a pimple, be sure to avoid that area completely, and if you have active acne or cystic acne, I don’t recommend micro-needling until your acne is 100% clear." Rolling over acne also increases your risks of a major infection, Dr. Grossman adds.

There are temporary annoyances, too. "Those with sensitive skin can become red or flushed," Dr. Grossman notes. "And those who don't tolerate products well need to be very careful, because you’re causing inflammation in the skin, you’re disrupting the barrier, and you’re increasing penetration of products."

You may be asking yourself, Wait, I thought I wanted better product penetration? You do, but when active ingredients go deeper into skin, the risk of irritation goes up, which is why Dr. Grossman insists on a patch test of all products you wish to apply after micro-needling. But we'll explain that later.

And, while this seems like good common sense, never ever share your roller, even if it's clean — or expect these risks to go way, way up.


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The next question you may be asking yourself: How often should I micro-needle? The answer to this isn't black and white; it has a bit to do with how your skin tolerates it, how long the needles are, and what other skin treatments you're doing regularly. But in general, our experts recommend somewhere between once weekly and a few times a week.

"I tell patients that if you want to uptick their maintenance at home — and I have patients that like to be highly maintained — I would recommend doing it once a week," Dr. Grossman says, noting that you can go up to a 1-mm needle size if you limit the treatment to once weekly. "Because again, what do the micro-needles do? At those levels, they make very small injuries in the skin, which certainly allows increased penetration of products. But you also need to be careful, because what goes along with the increased penetration of many products? Increased irritation and inflammation."

When using a home roller with needles that are on the longer side of the at-home spectrum, Dr. Grossman recommends alternating it with other treatments. You'll have to pick between peels, dermarolling, and exfoliation — not all three!

Benjamin, on the other hand, prefers a shorter needle, used more frequently, and even done after other treatments, like peels. "I recommend .2-mm rollers for home use. They are super-safe, yet still highly effective," she says. "Using this size roller, I recommend rolling three to five times a week to get the maximum benefit."

As a general note, the smaller the needle size, the better your skin can tolerate the treatment. However, Dr. Grossman reminds us again not to overdo it. Stick to one weekly treatment until you know how your skin reacts, and only dermaroll at night, to cut down on environmental (cold, heat, sun) and product (SPF, makeup) stressors that could unintentionally irritate your skin further.


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So you made it to slide five, which means you're still curious, or totally ready to give it a go — let's pick your roller of choice.

To start slowly (which we recommend), simply heed Benjamin's advice and pick a roller with .2-mm needles, like the oneshe uses on her own clients. For something that will penetrate a little deeper, try a .5-mm roller, and eventually you can graduate to a 1-mm size.

When using a roller a few times a week, Benjamin suggests tossing it out and replacing it every month; less frequently used rollers will last longer. "They're like razors and they dull, so they need to be discarded [regularly] as you could damage your skin with the dull needles," she says.

It's also important to note that the .2-mm size feels uncomfortable, but not painful, while the 1-mm is considered painful by some people; .5 mm is somewhere in the middle.

Now that you have your roller picked out, let's discuss the best way to use it.


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Before you begin, wash your hands and face, and dry both using a clean towel. Next, clean your roller with at least 91% isopropyl alcohol (standard drugstore rubbing alcohol) by submerging it in alcohol, then rinsing.

Benjamin tells her clients to divide their faces into sections: the cheeks, chin, and left and right sides of the forehead. (You can do the neck and hands, too, but make sure you wash them first.) Work on one section at a time. The forehead is the most sensitive, so let's start there to get it out of the way.

Using very light pressure, roll horizontally over your forehead going in even strokes and only going over the same section of skin two to three times at most.


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Repeat on the same section, rolling vertically this time — and, again, remember to only go over the same section two to three times at most.


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Finally, repeat on that same section diagonally, like in the illustration here. Once the forehead is done, move on to the next section. Avoid the eyes since that skin is more delicate, and the nose, since you should only be rolling over flat surfaces.

Now it's time for Dr. Grossman's strongly recommended patch test: Select the serum that you'd like to use, and apply it on a nickel-sized area on your forehead or cheek. Wait 24 hours. If your skin doesn't react, you can apply all over your face the next time you use the roller.

Benjamin also likes to apply serum before rolling, but be sure you do a patch test of any new serum you want to apply before diving in, whether before or after your treatment. Dr. Grossman recommends looking for ingredients that are active, but not inherently irritating, like peptides, growth factors, or antioxidants, such as her favorite, SkinCeuticals' C E Ferulic.

Dr. Grossman notes that super-hydrating hyaluronic acid is also something to consider: "Hyaluronic acid has large molecules, so it's difficult [to get it to] penetrate, so this is a good way to aid that," she says. Benjamin also recommends these ingredients, and sends her clients home with her own hyaluronic acid and peptide formulas.

Then comes your face cream or lotion, which is very important. "Micro-needling disrupts your skin's barrier, so if you’re going to do this you want to make sure that you put products on after to repair that barrier," Dr. Grossman says. "A good moisturizer that has some kind of barrier-repair properties, whether that is a simple Cetaphil or CeraVe, [will get the job done]."

Last but not least, you must always clean your roller before putting it away. Submerge it in alcohol, allow it to dry in its case with the top off, and then pack it away for next time.

 

"Hair Dusting" Is The Secret To Healthier, Longer Hair

 
 
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Last year I bleached my hair one too many times. Then I bleached it again.

No shock here: My normally very-resilient strands became more damaged than they'd been in years. It was own fault — and it's a common story in our era of icy and pastel hair color trends.

I called in the big guns for rehab — Olaplex, masks, pre-shampoo treatments — and they all made a major difference. But, as we all know very well, you can't really fix split or fried ends; you have to cut 'em off before they get worse. So, what's one to do when you need to lose the dead, fried, split weight, but aren't looking to go much shorter? Enter: Hair dusting.

L.A. hairstylist Sal Salcedo introducing me to the technique — and he literally saved my hair in one dust.


What Is Hair Dusting?

“Hair dusting is a technique in which you don’t get rid of any hair length, but only the damaged hair tips," Salcedo explains. "This can be done by snipping the very bottom of each hair strand."

So how does that work? "Think of it in terms of removing fuzz from clothes," he says. "You want to smooth the hair out the best you can first, because you need to allow the bad hair to pop up. That's what you will be getting rid of."

Here's the reason why many hairstylists don't do it: It's really time consuming. In fact, it's almost like a second haircut after your strands are shaped and trimmed. "It's more of a grooming technique, rather than an overall haircut," he says, noting that it's by no means new. "It's been done for ages, some cultures even use different techniques, like fire or razors."

Ready to see the technique in action?

And one more time in slow-motion...

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SAL SALCEDO.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SAL SALCEDO.

Convinced? Here’s What Your Stylist Needs To Know

“I hold smaller strands of hair in my hand, then slowly open and close my shears perpendicular to the hair strand, letting my shears catch the damaged hair," Salcedo says. "Then, I proceed to cutting the perimeter of the hair, if the ends are bad there, too."

Salcedo does this to most of his clients, which is why every look he shares on Instagram is so damn enviable. To achieve healthier hair, without going shorter, ask your hairstylist for a "dusting — not a trim!" Salcedo says. "Less than half an inch of a snip in most cases — and sometimes even less throughout the surface of the hair, the layers, and the ends. If it's dead, let it go."

Salcedo says the technique works on any hair type or texture — but you do need to smooth the hair out to see the damaged ends that should be removed. And no, it won't thin the hair — quite the opposite. It actually stops the damage by removing it, so you won't have split ends creeping up your strands. That said, make sure you go to a stylist that knows what they're doing — the dusting should be very minimal.

"The point is to get rid of hair that no longer serves you," Salcedo says. "Hair gets damaged because of weather, coloring, bad haircuts, hot tools, and most of time, just the age of the hair."

Want to see it a few more times in action? Keep on scrolling...


 

Everything You Need To Know Before Getting Undereye Filler

 
 
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While it might seem like undereye filler exploded into the beauty conversation the moment Katy Perry copped to it, the reality is that it's been an insider Hollywood secret for well over a decade. Tear trough filler, the actual name dermatologists use for the procedure, does what creams or makeup never could: smooths the circles under the eyes by filling in the hollow that becomes deeper as we age.

While it's easy to understand why the filler spot has increased in popularity, it’s also one of the riskier places to inject on the face due to its proximity to the eyes. If it's something you're considering, it's not to be taken lightly and should only be performed by a board-certified medical doctor who specializes in their field — also called core doctors — like dermatology and plastic surgery.

For everything you need to know, from the consultation and aftercare to the risks and pricing, we turned to three of the top injectors in Los Angeles. Click ahead for everything you need to know about tear trough filler, including a video to see exactly how it's done.


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Filling in the circles under your eyes sounds like a dream in theory, but the consultation is where you learn what comes along with the fairytale. Your provider should go over the side effects, risks, maintenance required, before-and-after images of their work, and price. Every city is different, but our experts in L.A. charge between $750 and $950 a syringe; most people only need one syringe to start, unless you have major volume loss.

This is also the time when your MD can determine if you're even a candidate to begin with. "People will come in thinking they need undereye filler when they don’t," board-certified dermatologist Karyn Grossman, MD, says. "Dark circles can be from discoloration or an indent." In other words, if the darkness under your eyes is a result of hyperpigmentation or a reflection of blood or muscle, filler won't do much.

"Tear trough filler is best for people who have minor fat pad bulges and can soften, but not erase, more significant fat pad bulges with some layering of filler," Dr. Grossman says. Some indents caused by fat pad bulges are genetic and can be seen in young people, while others find hollows develop or deepen through the aging process when collagen and elastin begin to break down and skin begins to sag.


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After covering your bases from a safety perspective, you want to make sure you choose someone whose aesthetic matches your desired end result. While there are many practitioners who offer it, the delicate procedure requires an experienced doctor with a trained eye. "Many people overfill the undereye," Dr. Grossman says. "But do you need to look younger than a 12-year-old?"

Board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD, agrees, adding that the area around the eyes is one of the hardest to achieve a natural result. Because the filler is injected above the bone, but below the muscle, the provider has to steer clear of veins in a very veiny area. A mistake here can result in unsightly or catastrophic results (more on that later).

Do your research, read every review you can, and prioritize quality and safety first. "This is not the time to use Groupon," Dr. Shamban says.


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First timers should only ask for hyaluronic acid dermal fillers, like Restylane, Juvederm, or Belotero. Yes, there are other options that last longer, including various forms of your own fat, but H.A. filler is the only reversible substance, which makes it ideal for newbies. And those three types in particular respond best to hyaluronidase, the substance injected to dissolve the filler if there is an emergency or the patient dislikes the result.

Which H.A. filler your provider chooses is important to the end result. Shamban prefers fillers from the Restylane family for this procedure, because you don't risk what she calls the "tyndall effect," or the blue-gray shadow that can occur when Juvederm is placed too close to the surface of skin.

Dr. Grossman agrees that Restylane is a more foolproof pick, but notes that Belotero is better for those with thin skin because it doesn't absorb as much water, so swelling is more minimal when you eat a big, salty meal. (Yep, filler can puff up a little when it absorbs water because it's hydrophilic.)


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We'll just come right out and say it: Yes, it will hurt. But your provider can apply topical numbing cream for 10 to 20 minutes beforehand to make the procedure more comfortable for you. Ahead of your appointment, you'll also want to avoid anticoagulants (blood thinners) like ibuprofen or aspirin, which can increase your risk of bruising. Lay off fish oil supplements and alcohol for as long as you can, too. (Some doctors say a day is fine, while others say two weeks is better.)

Of course, pain is relative, but most rank it a four to five out of 10: bearable, but memorable and 100% made worse by nerves. (Subsequent visits tend to rank closer to a two.) Your eyes will be sore as the numbing cream wears off, so get home and relax. But expect to feel fine by the following day. If not, follow up with your doctor.


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On the day of your procedure, your doctor will remove your makeup and cleanse your skin with both hibiclens (a medical-grade skin cleanser) and rubbing alcohol to prevent infection. Then, they will either inject your undereye area directly or use a cannula, which is a tiny tube that's inserted above the cheekbone and used to distribute product elsewhere, like under the eyes. Dr. Grossman and Dr. Shamban normally opt for a needle because it's said to be more precise, but board-certified dermatologist Annie Chiu, MD, sometimes uses a cannula because the risk of bruising is lower.

A skilled injector will go slowly, adding a bit of product at a time until they reach the desired result. “It’s important to do it in stages so we don’t over traumatize and have too much swelling,” Dr. Chiu points out. Most doctors will keep patients sitting up so they can assess the work as they go and try to limit the injection spots. "I usually do one to three entry points so you have less bruising," Dr. Shamban says.

Many doctors also mold the product with their fingers quickly after it's injected to shape it into place before it fully sets. The whole procedure should take about 15 minutes (post numbing) and your provider will immediately ice the area to reduce swelling and bruising afterward. It's important not to mess with your undereye area for the rest of the day because you want to avoid germs as much as possible. Makeup, for example, is a no-no.


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Some results will be visible immediately, albeit swelling means that you won't get a full picture until a few days later. The swelling should be on par with what your eyes look like after a sad movie or at the height of allergy season — nothing more and nothing a stranger would notice. If the swelling doesn't disappear after a few days, consult with your doctor.

“Undereye filler lasts between nine months and a year for the average person,” Chiu explains. Some fullness might stick around for longer depending on your anatomy and how quickly filler dissolves in your body — some even notice results for up to three years. Either way, all our experts recommend getting a touch-up before you lose all your results so you minimize the amount injected each time, plus any potential side effects.


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At this point, you're probably well aware that bruising is common. Some say it can be reduced with oral arnica and bromelain, but prepare to ice the area in 10 minute sessions throughout the first 24 hours. You'll also want to avoid working out for least a day, because raising your heart rate could exacerbate bruising.

If a nasty bruise does appear, Dr. Grossman has patients come back to the office for a quick ultrasound or laser treatment to help it disappear faster. Something called a "bleb" can also happen, which looks a bit like a welt in the injection spot. This means the filler was applied too close to the surface of the skin and needs to be dissolved.

Swelling and bruising are common, but more serious results can occur down the road. "Your filler could be fine then, six months later, your eyes are red, swollen, and tender," Dr. Grossman says. She says that's either a result of biofilm, which is a kind of infection that forms around the filler, or a sensitivity reaction that is developing to the filler. "That's treated with hyaluronate, antibiotics, and oral steroids," she says.


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Although incredibly rare, there are also vascular risks, like occlusions. "Any place that filler is injected can go into a blood vessel then go downstream and block blood flow to an area," Dr. Grossman says. "If it's just a skin occlusion, you see a blanching where the skin turns white and then it turns this dusty gray purple color and there are protocols that you do to deal with it."

But, in rarer cases, it can be much, much worse than that. "When a particle goes into a blood vessel and instead of going downstream to cause a skin occlusion it somehow has enough force to go upstream and into a larger blood vessel, and then back downstream from that, ocular occlusion [can occur]." That is, blindness or partial blindness in one or both eyes. The chance of this happening is a fraction of a percent, but that doesn't mean it's impossible, so it's important to consider.

Dr. Shamban points out that your risks slightly improve if you use a cannula, "But even a cannula can get into a vein," she says. Dr. Grossman agrees and adds that cannula occlusions have been reported. Which is why it's important to go to a doctor who can treat you in the event of an emergency, not a medi spa where the solution is to call 911.


Press play to watch Dr. Chiu give a patient tear trough filler for the first time.

 

Everything You Want To Know About Nipple Piercings (& We Mean Everything)

 
 
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Everyone has an opinion on nipple piercings. Maybe you have one of your own. Maybe you want one. Maybe the thought makes you want to cross your arms and protect your breasts at all costs. Or maybe, like us, you just want to know more about the whole thing.

The nipple piercing trend is currently having a big moment, thanks to stars like Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, Rihanna, Amber Rose, and Kristen Stewart (and those are just a few of the celebrities rumored to have one) — but given the hidden nature, it’s difficult to get a handle on just how popular it is. That's why we asked celebrity piercerBrian Keith Thompson of Body Electric Tattoo to tell us everything. But first he clarified one important thing: Nipple piercings aren't just for Hollywood bigwigs; they're for everyone in "every field you can imagine."

With that in mind, keep on clicking to see Thompson answer every single question you've ever wondered about nipple piercings. (Just in case you've got some more, feel free to leave them in the comments below.)

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This is a huge trend in L.A. right now. When did the uptick happen? Is the piercing more popularamong men or women?
There are far more women getting pierced than men, ever since Kendall [Jenner] got hers done here [at Body Electric]. It’s been popular over the past few years, but nothing like after Kendall did it. But you gotta give some credit to Rihanna, too. She definitely contributed to it. It feels like I've pierced every nipple in Los Angeles — twice.”

Are most people doing one nipple or both?
“More women are doing both right now, which is a big shift from last year when women were just doing one and it was the men doing both."


Pick one: barbells or hoops?
"Barbells are way more popular. They’re more subtle under clothes and they heal faster because they don’t move around as much,” says Thompson. Barbells also allow for more room for swelling: “I like to allow at least an eighth of an inch on each side of the nipple, between the ball.” This allows for the fluctuation. Plus, it’s easier to accidentally hit or pull a hoop than a barbell. One more thing while we’re on the subject: You want to go with an internally threaded barbell, not an externally threaded one, which means the bar is smooth and won’t create irritation and tiny cuts while going in or out of the piercing.

What kind of metal is best? How much should the piercing and ring cost in total?
Thompson prefers titanium for those that want to save some dough because it’s hypoallergenic and rarely problematic. Obviously, gold (white, rose, or yellow) or platinum is great, too, if you want to splurge.

You can also go for stainless steel, but Thompson notes that not all stainless steel is created equally: Cheap options (often imported from overseas) can be under $20, but they can have a good amount of nickel mixed in, which is a common culprit of allergic reactions. Stick to medical-grade or implant-grade stainless steel if you go that path.

A quality titanium or implant-grade stainless steel barbell with the piercing will run you about $50 or 60 bucks in most cities. Solid gold can be upwards of several hundred with the piercing. And platinum? If you have to ask, you can't afford it.

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Let’s talk about pain — how bad is it really?
Thompson calls it “totally tolerable,” but spend enough time on Reddit boards and chatting with those who have experienced it and you’ll find it’s considered one of the most painful piercings. But, it’s also incredibly fleeting. “It’s like one, two, done,” Thompson says. “It’s short-lived pain.”

How long does it take to heal?
On average, it’s between a few months and a year (six months is the most common answer), but some nipples, unfortunately, cannot tolerate the piercing and never heal. (The warning sign yours is rejecting the piercing? A red streak across your nipple. You want to get the jewelry out before it fully rejects, because if you let it get pushed too far, “you’re going to have a terrible scar.”)

However, that doesn’t mean the healing process is a nightmare. “The first few days, they’re going to be very tender, then they start feeling good, fast,” he says. But whatever you do, don’t think you were the exception and have healed nipples in a few weeks: “People start feeling good, so they stop taking care of them, they start touching them, they let their significant other play with them,” Thompson says. This is a big mistake that can lead to problems, so stay diligent for the first year, or risk having major issues.

Can you pierce any nipple? Even small, inverted, or flat nipples?
“I’ve never met a nipple I couldn’t pierce,” Thompson says. Yep, that includes all the types mentioned above. He notes that inverted nipples are almost as common as flat ones — and he pierces plenty of them. Piercing an inverted nipple can actually cause it to become pushed out, while flat nipples will become slightly more raised. Small nipples are a breeze; he just opts for a smaller barbell.

Those very concerned about flat or inverted nipples can request a suction device that pulls the nipple out, making it easier — although it’s not really necessary, Thompson says. "Your piercer can simply work the nipple out with their fingers," he says. (If that made your stomach turn, prepare yourself for what's to come.)

Do pierced nipples stay hard forever?
“No, the nipple will not stay erect, but it will be more pronounced."

Is there anything you have to avoid after you get pierced?
Keeping it clean and free of foreign bacteria is of paramount importance for the first few months. That means you (and your partner) should limit touching, and avoid pools, spas, hot tubs, bodies of water, and even showers in countries with water sanitation limitations. Translation: If you wouldn’t feel comfortable drinking the water, don’t let it touch your nipple until it’s healed.

What’s the actual piercing process like?
Obviously, all places work a little differently and it's very important to make sure you go to a reputable piercing studio with clean conditions, good reviews (check Yelp and Google the shit out of your piercer), and an experienced staff — but you already knew that. Having said that, know your experience shouldn’t be too far off from how it works at Body Electric. Here’s how it goes down.

After you pick your jewelry and sign the proper forms, the piercing room will be closed for privacy. First, the jewelry is sterilized with a machine. The nipple is cleaned with alcohol and a surgical scrub, then it’s dotted with a marker before you are asked to lie down on the piercing table — just in case you pass out. "Nine times out of ten, the client wants a horizontal piercing," Thompson says.

Then, the nipple is clamped. “Some piercers don’t use clamps on the nipple, but I do because it makes the whole process a little faster,” Thompson says. A few deep breathes and in goes the needle. (If they pull out a piercing gun, put on your top and run!) Your piercer will then put your jewelry in, apply pressure to stop any bleeding, and place a bandage over the piercing.

Is bleeding normal?
Yes, bleeding is totally normal and common both at the time of the piercing and during the first week, Thompson says — but it doesn’t happen to everyone. If you're bleeding after a week, or more than you would from a small cut, call your piercer and explain what's going on.

What should you expect for a few days after?
Your nipples may bleed for the first week and you can expect them to be incredibly sore. You’ll quickly realize how often your nipple lightly brushes random things — because it’s going to hurt. It will get crusty and require daily cleaning.

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What’s the most common follow-up call you receive after you pierce someone's nipple?
“That they’re swollen more than we foresaw and they need to come in and put a longer post in their barbell,” Thompson says. Luckily, it’s easy to swap the posts, if only until the swelling goes down. You need to come in fast if your nipple is swollen past the ball or risk other issues.

How do you care for a nipple piercing?
Gentle soap and warm water applied very gently once per day in the shower, then just allow the piercing to air-dry. Different piercers recommend different formulas, but Thompson sends everyone home with a bottle of Dr. Bronner's Castile Soap in Tea Tree or Baby Unscented (for sensitive skin). You can pick this up at most health food stores.

We can't stress this next part enough: Don't touch it! That means no turning or touching the barbell — at all! Don't let anyone else touch it, either. Wear a soft cotton bra (like a bralette or comfy sports bra), and just try to forget about it for a few weeks, short of monitoring the healing and washing it in the shower.

It’s normal for nipple piercings to get crusty, so many people opt for a daily sterile saline bath. Grab a bottle of sterile saline and a shot glass, or try Thompson's DIY: Mix half a teaspoon of sea salt in a large mug of warm water until dissolved, then fill a shot glass or smaller mug with the mixture, cup over the nipple, and let it soak for as long as you like. “You can’t [overdo] this — it’s great for speeding up the healing process,” Thompson says. Still getting crusty after six months? Try upgrading your jewelry; it could be a light allergic reaction.

Avoid rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, ointment, or anything else you may use to treat a wound. Repeat after us: Soap, saline, soft bras — and no touching!

How do you know if your nipple is infected and you need to see a doctor, or if it’s just irritated or healing slowly?
Thompson says that an infection is not as common as you might think, and most irritation is likely from an allergic reaction to cheap jewelry, while pain and redness could be from a too-small barbell. This is what he tells his clients: An actual infection will cause a slight fever, swollen lymph nodes, or a piercing that's red, inflamed, and painful. If something feels off, it probably is — and the nipple is no place to take risks. Call your piercer as soon as you suspect an issue and never be shy about calling your primary care physician for advice — that’s what they’re there for.

Can my new piercing cause nipple thrush?
Nipple thrush isn't the same as your typical piercing infection — yes, it's an infection, but it's caused by yeast. Although it's possible for a piercing to trigger nipple thrush, it's not likely, says Sherry Ross, MD, OB/GYN, and author of she-ology. Just in case you do think you have nipple thrush, Dr. Ross says to keep an eye out for these symptoms: pain, swelling, redness, burning, itching, or stinging of the nipples. She adds that the skin of the nipple could appear shiny or flaky, as well as blister. If any of that sounds like you, contact your physician ASAP.

Can you change your jewelry yourself?
"Yes, once it’s healed and you feel confident, it’s totally fine to switch out your jewelry yourself," Thompson says. The only caveat? “Don’t take too much time to do it." The nipple, especially in the first year, could start to close up within a few minutes. Because of this, Thompson suggests letting a pro change your jewelry the first few times.

Will the hole close if you remove the jewelry down the road?
Most of the time, even if the nipple is healed and you’ve had the piercing for years, the hole will close up — fast. There are exceptions, of course, and some holes stay open for years without jewelry, but it’s pretty uncommon.

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What happens if you have to have a non-related medical procedure that requires removal of the piercing?
You can purchase a "retainer," which is basically a glass barbell that won’t disrupt a procedure (like an MRI or surgery) and maintain the hole.

Level with us: How long do you and your S.O. really have to wait before touching them?
Thompson says that the less people who touch it, the better, to limit foreign germs. In other words: Try to avoid letting a bunch of random hook-ups feel you up for awhile. “At least go three or four weeks and try to keep it to a minimum,” Thompson says, “but it’s not like you have to go six months.” And obviously, wash your hands before touching your nipples.

Does the piercing make your nipples more sensitive?
Yes and no. The nervous system is what makes your nipples sensitive, he explains, so it doesn’t really make them more sensitive, but it does make them stick out more and makes you more aware of them, so for some, this is more than enough to make a noticeable difference. Of course, many people do report they are significantly more sensitive after, so this answer isn’t so black and white.

Let’s talk about scarring. What are the best and worst case scenarios?
Any piercing is going to leave a mark, but you can minimize it with proper care. “If they’re done properly and you don’t have any reaction to the metal, they will be very minimal and most people won’t even notice,” Thompson says. However, genetics and complications can cause keloids or hypertrophic scarring, and again, it could reject, leaving you with a bad scar that would require surgery to attempt to fix. "With every type of piercing, you must remember that there are repercussions and scars can happen,” he says.

Once they’re healed, can you breastfeed?
“This is my most common question — and the answer is yes,” Thompson says. It's true that it shouldn't impact your ability to breastfeed, but that’s not to say that a nipple piercing can’t cause complications. Again, there are risks and complications and scarring can happen.

Which is more painful: nipple or genital piercings?
“Well, that depends on the genital piercing — there are some male genital piercings that will make you see God," Thompson says with a laugh.

Is it safe to pierce the same spot for a second time? It's been about two years since I removed mine because I felt like they were being rejected. I really miss them and have considered getting them done again.
"Absolutely. I’ve re-pierced each one of mine, I think it’s about four times now. It’s not going to hurt more and it's not going to cause any additional problems. There’s really no downside to re-piercing again."

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What is the best and most comfortable bra to wear after getting them done?Thompson suggests a soft, cotton, dark-colored sports bra. You won't risk staining a light fabric with a little blood (hey, it happens) or tugging on your piercing with details or delicate fabric, like lace. However, at the end of the day, it's all about trial and error, but definitely start with something you know is comfortable and won't catch on your jewelry.

Should you start with one nipple and then wait until that's healed until you get the other one done?
“It’s about personal preference — whatever works for you should be the way you get pierced,” Thompson says. “If you want to wait and heal one and then do the next, then by all means go ahead and do that. If you want to sit down and knock it out in one shot, then that’s great, too.”

When can you start working out?
"Thirty minutes after you get it pierced. Working out has no impact on the piercing itself unless you’re putting tension on it. If you feel pain in the area, that’s your body telling you it doesn’t like what’s going on — so stop doing it. Keeping your piercing clean is also something to consider, because it's like an open wound, so cleanliness at the gym and how thick your clothing is is something to consider."

What should I wear to the appointment? Do I have to remove my shirt?
"It depends on your comfort level and your piercer," Thompson says. "If you don’t want to remove your shirt, you don’t have to — you could pull it up or pull it down. I’ve had clients do a little bit of everything. It really doesn’t matter, so wear what you feel comfortable in."

 

Exclusive: Ashley and Mary-Kate Tell Us Exactly How to Copy Their Hair

 

You already know the secret to Ashley and Mary-Kate’s lived-in makeup is matte lip and eye pencils applied next to dewy skin, and the inspiration behind their Elizabeth and James fragrances is a play on gender, so now it’s time to talk about their hair routine. How, exactly, do the twins get their beach-meets-city waves? We had to ask.

Forget any notion you have of the Olsens using curling irons or fancy texture spray. We sat down with Mary-Kate and Ashley and their mane man, Mark Townsend, and found out it’s actually a cocktail of a drugstore dry shampoo and a unique waving iron.

The Olsens have had their locks every which way—Ashley says she won’t ever go back to brunette, Mary-Kate is more adventurous—but it’s their tight waves that have become their signature.

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The secret to Ashley’s healthy locks? “I wash my hair every other day and never blow-dry it,” she told us. “I go out with wet hair and just let it dry naturally.” Townsend approves. “I love that Ashley has embraced her natural texture,” he says.

As it turns out, air-dried hair is the foundation of the twins’ signature waves. “I rarely ever pick up a blow-dryer,” Townsend confirms. Instead, he reaches for Rsession Tools Nalu Waver ($179, currently unavailable—but this Hot Tools variation is similar). “All I do is grab random chunks of hair here and there and wrap them in a figure-eight shape around the barrel,” he says. Don’t hold for too long, he notes; gently shake the curl out before it sets, for a loose feeling.

Once Ashley and Mary-Kate have waves in their hair, it’s time to add texture. Townsend’s secret weapon? Dove Dry Shampoo ($4), used like a texture spray, not a traditional dry cleanser. “It gives their hair the best texture,” he says. “It has starch instead of powder, which literally builds layers, creating a piecey look, and locks in the volume. Plus, it delivers a matte finish.” Townsend suggests spraying the formula in small sections from root to tip until you reach your desired texture.

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The Olsens are well aware of the obsession over their locks. Their thoughts on the subject? “At the end of the day, I think that [our fans] appreciate how natural we are,” Mary-Kate told us. “For us, it’s all about what makes us feel good. We don’t really overdo it, and maybe that’s where it stems from.”

The finishing touch to the Olsens’ signature waves? To balance the texture created by the dry shampoo, Townsend reaches for Serge Normant Meta Sheer Dry Oil Finishing Spray($24) next. “I only apply it on their ends, to make the hair a little more piecey and close the cuticle of the hair,” he says.

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“Ashley’s been growing her hair out for a few years now,” Townsend says.

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“I recently chopped off all my hair because it was so dead,” Mary-Kate told us. “I’m still trying to get used to it.”

Getting accustomed to her shorter ’do means trying new styles. Her new go-to is slicked back and sleek. “They’re always the first to try things,” Townsend told us. “We’re seeing the slicked-back look all over the runway.”

To get Mary-Kate’s new sleek look, Townsend reaches for gel. “I’ll do the opposite of what I normally do,” he says. “It’s meant to look wet, meant to look greasy. I just put a ton of Oribe Rock Hard Gel ($36) on her roots, then I pin it back and let it dry in place.” Once it’s dry, he blasts the ends with Dove’s dry shampoo.

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On a day off, Mary-Kate keeps the sleek look going. “For the most part, I’ve just been wearing a good old ponytail,” she says.

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The best beauty advice the twins ever received? “Our dad always told us to wear our hair off of our faces,” Ashley says. “I always thought that was pretty good advice.”

This story was originally published at an earlier date and has since been updated.

 
 
Source: https://www.byrdie.com/mary-kate-ashley-ol...

Alice Eve

A conversation between the British actress and her longtime makeup artist.

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Exclusive: Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen Spill Their Makeup Secrets

 

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen need no introduction. They’ve proven themselves as legitimate fashion designers in every circle imaginable, their risk-taking fashion sense has been well-documented by relentless paparazzi photos, and we all know they landed roles on Full House long before they could walk. But it’s their beauty routine that’s been kept relatively quiet.

We had the opportunity to sit down with Mary-Kate and Ashley to talk about all things beauty, from their fragrances to their best beauty moments. How does one prepare for an interview with the Olsens? After geeking out for longer than we’d like to admit, a few of our editors gathered and came up with our most burning beauty questions for the pair. These queries were, of course, mostly about their perfectly textured hair, beauty inspirations, and favorite cosmetics.

GETTY/GARY GERSHENOFF

GETTY/GARY GERSHENOFF

“We know exactly what we like,” Ashley told us about their signature dewy skin, beige lips, and smudged eyeliner. “We’re very specific, detailed people. Hair and makeup just sort of bring everything together. The right hair and makeup can make the outfit go any which way.”

When asked about that beige matte lip, the twins smile at each other. “It’s not a lipstick—it’s a waterproof lip liner!” Ashley says about Make Up For Ever’s Aqua Lip Waterproof Lipliner Pencil ($19) in 3C. “Our makeup artist [Erik Soto] sends them to us.”

“On a day off, we don’t really wear much makeup,” Ashley says. The one product they don’t leave home without? Brave Soldier Lip Defender ($9). “It’s more like skincare for your lips than a lip balm,” Mary-Kate says.

Before the return of the bold brow, Mary-Kate and Ashley were already brushing their full arches up and out to make them look even more dramatic. What keeps them in place? “First, you need a flat toothbrush,” explains Ashley. “It’s bigger than a brow brush, so it works better, then we just use Anastasia Clear Brow Gel ($22).”

The trick to Mary-Kate and Ashley’s signature smoky eye? It’s done with matte brown shadow instead of shimmery black.

Mary-Kate and Ashley are no strangers to the world of perfume—they put their name on scents as tweens—but it’s the launch of their two scents for Elizabeth and James that's cause for celebration this month.
“It all started with our desire to bring together sandalwood and vanilla, to create a very sensual, and almost masculine scent,” explains Mary-Kate referring to Nirvana Black ($60). “The two scents are a play on duality,” Ashley adds, describing it as lived-in and androgynous.

After the year-and-half venture to create Black, the twins moved on to create what would be Nirvana White ($80), a lighter, more feminine floral.

Which scent do they prefer? “It just depends on just how you’re feeling,” Ashley says. “They also smell really nice together. I’ll put one on during the day, and then add the other one later.” Mary-Kate adds, “They’re both sensual in different ways—we want to give women options.”

The trick to the Olsen’s complexion? They keep their skin dewy and their eyes and lips matte. “That’s what they like,” Soto told us. That dewy skin often comes courtesy of Benefit’s Erase Paste ($26) in Medium and Make Up For Ever’s Face & Body Liquid Makeup ($43).

Then, for contour, Mary-Kate and Ashley keep the dewy texture going with Bobbi Brown’s Skin Foundation Stick ($46) and Stila’s Convertible Color ($25) in Lillium. “Just a touch,” Soto tells us.

Of course, we had to ask Mary-Kate and Ashley about their signature smudged eyeliner. “The trick is to use brown,” Ashley says. That brown liner, it turns out, is also matte, providing a contrast to their always radiant skin. Soto uses Sephora Collection Retractable Waterproof Eyeliner ($12) in Matte Brown Black along both of their lash lines and smudges it with a small brush. “The oil in your skin will break down a matte shade and make it look more lived-in,” he tells us.

When asked about their favorite mascara, Mary-Kate was quick to reply “YSL!” referring to Volume Effet Faux Cils Mascara ($32). Then, on the red carpet, they amp it up with Guerlain’s Cils d’Enfer Maxi Lash Mascara ($32). “It gives that full lash that they love,” Soto explains.

This post was originally published on April 30, 2013.

 






 
Source: https://www.byrdie.com/mary-kate-ashley-ol...