L.A.'s Top Celebrity Piercer Is Spilling His Wildest Stories [NSFW]

The following is an interview with Brian Keith Thompson, L.A.'s most in-demand piercer and owner of Body Electric Tattoo. His celebrity clients include Beyoncé, Scarlett Johansson, FKA Twigs, and Jessica Alba. Edited for length and clarity.

Prison To Piercing

I did four years in the Marines. From there, I tried to get in with the LAPD, but they weren't hiring [people like me] in '95, so I went and started working for my dad's company in network integration. I got into trouble and did a stint in prison in the L.A. county jail. Life, dude, you never know where it's going to go, but that's how I found this place...

[When I got out], I had some tattoos I didn't like and some guy at a gym in North Hollywood told me about Body Electric Tattoo. I wanted to cover my chest; I thought if I was going to change, I was going to change everything about me. I got tattooed every two weeks — I just fell in love with the place — and six years later, it came up for sale and one of the artists asked me to be his partner. I said yes, but two weeks later he chickened out, so I did it alone.

I cashed out my pension and stock options, gave up my place, and was living at the Marriott Courtyard in Buena Park to afford it. I remember that first night, sitting in my hotel room having a panic attack. I literally gave my last dollar to buy the studio. I had to live out of the trunk of my car and sleep on the floor of the studio for almost six months.

At first, I worked seven days a week, made no money, and got no respect from the industry. And there was no 'big break.' I tell people it’s like climbing a mountain: You’re not going to run up it, it’s going to take time, but once I got to the top 10 years later, I had gone through so many trials and tribulations that I was a stronger climber, a better business person.

I literally gave my last dollar to buy the studio. I had to live out of the trunk of my car and sleep on the floor of the studio for almost six months.

-BRIAN KEITH THOMPSON

Piercing Celebs

Most celebrities want me to come to them, but state law stipulates that I can't. They’re fun, but they can also be very demanding. They walk in with security and try to shut down the shop; some bring an entourage. I’ve had body guards hit my jewelry case because I made them wait. Most, I’d say 90%, are really nice though. Scarlett Johansson would come in and wait patiently on the couch for me, just like any other client.

I will travel to switch out their jewelry though; I went to Beyoncé's house to switch out hers. If I have a rapport with them, I don’t mind at all. Beyoncé is great and so is her entire staff — I love working with them, some of the nicest people.

I used to get a lot more celebrities in the shop, but now it’s so busy, a lot of them don’t want to come in. I just had FKA Twigs fly from England to pierce her philtrum, she even laughed about how she flew all the way here, but she wanted me to do it. It's so flattering hearing that.

Strange Encounters

People do really inappropriate stuff; I don’t know what it is, maybe because you’re piercing their body? But I have had girls take off all of their clothes to change their belly button jewelry. I get set up, then I turn around and they’re completely naked... I think they do it just to see if they can get away with it.

A girl once grabbed my crotch. Yeah, that was weird. I don’t respond well to that. She was flirting and thought it was funny and said she ‘needed something to hold onto.' I said, ‘I can get one of the tattoo artists to hold your hand.'

I have actually been yelled at by girls for not looking at their nipples when I’m piercing them, because I only look when I have to. I had a girl say ‘I’m insulted! You didn’t even look at my boobs once!’ I try to make it as comfortable as possible. I want to keep my business, I don’t want to get sued for sexual harassment, plus, I don’t think it’s right to do that. I value women, I love women, and I want their business.

The weirdest thing that happens is people passing out; they get really worked up and then they just pass out. Sometimes the friend that is standing there with the camera passes out — it’s so funny, it’s hard for me not to laugh. You tell the person to take a deep breath and then the friend faints!

Beyoncé is great and so is her entire staff — I love working with them, some of the nicest people.

-BRIAN KEITH THOMPSON

Wild Things

I only do nipples or female genitals if the girl asks for me specifically, otherwise I have [my female piercers] work with them. I want people to feel comfortable. If they do ask for me, I only look at the breast or genitals when I need to, otherwise I look at my clients in the eye. It's not sexual, it's clinical.

There are many different types of genital piercings for women. There’s the VCH and HCH — vertical clitoral hood or horizontal clitoral hood — as well as the Christina and inner and outer labia. There’s also a really weird one called the Fourchette. It goes from the bottom of the vagina and comes out right before the anus. In my 11 years, I’ve done maybe three, that’s how rare it is. You’d never guess who’s getting these piercings — from professional athletes to moms, there’s no type, some people are just into it.

I don’t pierce the tongue because I think it’s detrimental to your health and your teeth, so we just won’t do it.

Most Requested

Right now, nipples are having a big moment. I've said it before, but I think I've pierced every nipple in Los Angeles — twice. And we are having a second big influx in people requesting constellation piercings; most people are still asking for very small, delicate, dainty stuff in their ears. I am seeing the navel come back — there was a lull in that for a while. Hoops are bigger than studs — even for the navel.

People are also becoming more educated that they shouldn’t get five or six in one sitting. They’re being patient and wanting to work up to it. Do a couple, then come back and do a couple more. It’s easier to heal three piercings than it is to heal seven.

The Good, The Bad, & The Banned

After the first article that Refinery29 wrote about me, I had women coming in from the East Coast, from Houston, all specifically to get pierced by me.

"I get a lot of women from Saudi Arabia and Dubai as well. They will simply pull the hijab to the side for me when I pierce them.

I do 86 people, but it's pretty rare. I just 86'd a blogger, I told her I didn't want to work with her anymore, not to come to my studio. I won't say what it's about, but I am very passionate about what I do. It takes a lot to get 86'd, but if you come in and treat my staff rudely, or start barking off orders or demanding things, I am going to send you right out the door. You treat us with dignity and respect, and I'll treat you with the same. You give me an attitude, I'll give you a bigger fucking attitude right back.

Success Story

I had someone tell me recently 'Man, you blew up!' and I said, no, "I showed up!' But I'm glad that it all worked out this way, because it makes finally reaching success that much sweeter.

Sometimes I can't believe that I did it. It took a lot of luck, because it could have worked out the other way and I could have not been successful. The fact that I have women and men that trust me to decorate their bodies — it's flattering and a great responsibility. I am having the time of my life.

Want more? Check out Thompson's piercing best practices and latest trend picks.

Meet The Woman Changing Prison Return Rates — Through Beauty

Tammy Kennedy is the founding director of Coffee Creek Correctional Facility's cosmetology program in Oregon. Over the past 16 years, she's helped 89 women graduate with their cosmetology licenses. Only six students have returned to prison after being released — which is one third of the national recidivism average. With unprecedented increases in women behind bars in the U.S., the value of programs like this are gaining new attention. The following interview was told to Lexy Lebsack and has been edited for length and clarity.

Getting Into Prison
The cosmetology school I went to in Salem, Oregon, didn't teach its students how to do textured hair. But I wanted to learn, so after some asking around, I ended up training with the cosmetology teacher at the local men's prison. Years later, I heard that they needed an instructor, and I ended up getting a job there. I worked there for five years until it closed due to budget cuts. In 2002, I applied at Portland Community College, which is the contractor for vocational training at Coffee Creek, and I was hired to start the cosmetology program. There were a lot of programs for men at the time, but there weren't any for women. We started from scratch: Just a room and a chair.

Fresh Start
The students start at 6:30 a.m and work 1o hour days, four days a week. The point is to educate the women in all aspects of cosmetology — hair, nails, and basic aesthetics. When someone comes to prison, they're starting out with a strike against them, so I think that it's important for us to give them the best education they can get and to teach all the newest techniques

When they leave here, they will be licensed by the State of Oregon so they can go out and get jobs so they don't come back. We want them to be successful and take care of themselves and their families. My students are dedicated to changing their lives and they rise to the occasion. When I interview them for the program they all tell me, 'I'm ready, I'm ready to be different. I'm ready to be a better mom, a better wife, a better mother, a better sister.'

Check Point
Security [in prison] is really important for everyone; it's important for the students, it's important for the clients, it's important for me. Part of that is making sure the tools are all accounted for, that they don't go somewhere else in the facility where something could happen with them. We have tool cages that have shadows behind each item, and hair color is in a locked cabinet because it could change their appearance [which is closely monitored and might require new identification]; I also monitor all of the hair color.

TWO STUDENTS PRACTICE GEL POLISH APPLICATION.

Appearance Matters
When a student starts school, there's an expectation that they do their hair and makeup for class. I tell them you have to suit up and show up every day. You need to come prepared like you were going to work in a salon. Don't just put your hair in a messy pony; I come in with my hair and makeup done every single day, so I say, 'If I can do it, you can do it.'

This is a profanity-free zone and they don't talk about criminal activity when they're in here. I'm trying to prepare them for success. Would you talk like that to a client when you're in a salon? If not, then you can't talk like that here. We work on that every single day, as well as the things that brought them here, trying to let go of some of those things to be the best person they can be when they leave.

Caring For Clients
Anyone from the general [prison] population can come into the program for free services. A lot of self esteem is lost when women come to prison. Being able to color their hair, do their nails, and those types of things help to restore a little bit of that.

Tattoo removal is a huge buzz around the institution right now, because we're trying to get a tattoo removal laser; there's a lot of people that have tattoos that they regret, whether they are gang-related, domestic violence- related, or drug-related. Being able to remove that part of their past is huge, and they're very excited about it.

Life On The Outside
"I have a binder called 'Tammy's Success Stories.' I have some students that have gone out and gotten really nice jobs and are doing great with their careers and rejoining their families. I had a student that, when she first started the program, was like, 'I don't wanna do this or that.' But we kept with it and she worked really hard, and when she left here she opened a Paul Mitchell partner school. One student just opened her own salon.

There are lots of students that start really down and out, but then they pick themselves up and realize that they can really do this! People make mistakes, but now it's, 'What are you gonna do to change that and bring it to a positive in your life?' You can't change what happened, but now you can change where you go forward from here.

Confessions Of Hollywood's Most In-Demand Tattoo Artist

PHOTO: COURTESY OF KENNETH CAPELLO

Brian Woo, better known as Dr. Woo, is the go-to tattoo artist for celebrities like Drake, Miley Cyrus, and Zoë Kravitz. To celebrate his TV debut tonight on Viceland's Tattoo Age, he opened up to R29 about his relationships with his famous clients, the odd story behind his moniker, and why he doesn't believe his own hype. The following interview was told to Lexy Lebsack and edited for length and clarity.

An Offer He Couldn’t Refuse

“I grew up in L.A. and got my first tattoo when I was 14; it was a little dragon on my ankle, which is now on the side of my calf because I had a growth spurt. I got my start when I was offered an apprenticeship with Mark Mahoney, who had been tattooing me for eight years. I was a fan of getting tattoos, but I didn't think I could ever be a tattoo artist. I compare it to getting a scholarship to a great medical school — even if you weren't sure about being a doctor, you'd probably take it.

“Getting my start at [Shamrock Social Club] on the Sunset Strip, I've seen some crazy things — from huge fights breaking out in the middle of the street to celebrities coming in and out. One time, a girl passed out in the bathroom before her appointment; she must have taken something to calm her nerves, and I had to literally break down the door like a movie when you throw your shoulder into it.”

PHOTO: COURTESY OF VICELAND.

Dr. Woo is famous for his delicate line work.

It’s All In The Details

“There's the old, traditional style of tattoos, which is bold and can be done in color, but fine line started in the ‘50s in the Los Angeles prison system. They're thinner gauge needles and create a finer tattoo with more details. My style was influenced by L.A. and by Mark, who is one of the founders of the single needle tattoo style. I would describe my style as super delicate with a lot of small details in a smaller space. It's not too bold or invasive and it gives an option to people who don't want to be totally covered in tattoos; it's more of an accessory.

On Becoming The “Doctor”

“At Shamrock Social Club, it's kind of a rite of passage: Once you go from apprentice to tattoo artist, you have to get a nickname. Mine started when one guy said there was an old movie that had this evil villain called Dr. Woo, but the character ended up not even being named Woo!

“As a first generation American, my parents immigrated here [from Taiwan] so their kids could be lawyers or doctors, so that was also a running joke — finally my parents have a doctor in the family! When I first started, my parents weren't psyched about my career path, but now they're super proud, which is kind of cool.”

PHOTO: COURTESY OF VICELAND.

Dr. Woo giving a client a calf tattoo on tonight's episode of Tattoo Age.

Draw The Line

“Celebrities go through life being hounded constantly, so I just treat them the same as everyone else. Being tattooed is such a personal thing between the artist and the client, and I take it very seriously and I’m very protective of all my clients. I don’t talk about the tattoos I do on celebrities, but if someone asked me about a random client’s tattoos, I wouldn't tell them about that either.

“A lot of other tattoo artists like to use the hype of the celebrity to promote themselves, but I just like to be about my work. I want people to look at a Dr. Woo tattoo and be like, ‘That's dope!’ I want them to like my work, not the fact that I gave a celebrity a small cross tattoo on their ankle. That doesn't really define me as an artist — if I tattooed a celebrity and they got a dot or some shit, ya know? That's just hype, and hype doesn't last forever."

Linda Rodin Launches Lipstick, We All Freak Out

COURTESY OF PROJECT MM/ARI SETH COHEN.

Update: Well, it turns out the rumors were true, and Linda Rodin has officially entered the color-cosmetics market with five killer lipsticks! The shades are exactly what you’d expect from Rodin: bright, bold, and beautifully packaged. Oh, and there’s even one named after Winks! You can pre-order the shades on her site now, so we suggest grabbing one (or all five) while you can, then checking out her interview with R29 below. Happy Tuesday!

This story was originally published on December, 4, 2015.

It could be easily argued that Linda Rodin single-handedly started the face-oil phenomenon a decade ago, with a blend she created in a coffee cup (!) in her bathroom. And after sitting down with the 67-year-old this week to talk all things beauty, we would alsoargue that she’s one of the industry's most noteworthy characters — with unfiltered opinions on everything from injectables to gray hair.

Chances are, you’ve seen Rodin somewhere — whether in a fashion campaign or in the manyprofiles of her floating around the internet, always alongside her (also) gray-haired poodle, Winks. The New York-based model-turned-stylist has been a fashion industry mainstay for decades, but it wasn’t until her 59th year that she dipped her toes into the beauty world. Today, Rodin's face and body oils are the gold standard in the industry. Plus, she just launched her first cleanser, and rumor has it she’ll be coming out with lipstick next. (But more on that later.)

Rodin is perched on a bench outside of Violet Grey’s Melrose Place beauty boutique, wearing her signature look — gray hair perfectly coiffed, bright-red lipstick and nail polish, clumpy lashes underneath oversized, tinted glasses. She’s visiting the West Coast with artist friend Donald Robertson to fête her colorful holiday packaging at the L.A. store. Because, why not?

Ahead, Rodin takes us to beauty school.

R29: First question: What’s the biggest beauty lesson you’ve learned?
Linda Rodin: "The reason that I started [Rodin] is that less is more. I like one thing that does not [do] everything, but something specific. I’m not into a million different things, so my tagline has always been, ‘There’s beauty in simplicity.' I like it simple; I like to get up and go."

I find [young people getting injectables] absolutely frightening; it’s science fiction to me. You've got to grow up and see what you’re going to look like!

-LINDA RODIN

R29: Was your signature beauty look an "aha!" moment, or did it evolve over time?
L.R.: "It happened because my hair started turning gray at 35, and I never dyed it; I never thought of dyeing it. And I started not being able to see, so I started wearing glasses. The look found me out of necessity."

R29: And have you always loved a bold lip?
L.R.: "On and off. As a teenager I wore frosted, light colors, and I have been back and forth, but as I got more gray, I thought I needed something bright because I can look a little transparent."

R29: What was the best thing about finding your signature beauty look?
L.R.: "It’s easy! Although on some level, some people can think it can be a little limiting, but at my age, I’m not experimenting. I'm going to be 68!"

R29: Speaking of, what are your favorite lipstick colors?
L.R.: "I love a red, a pink; I like hot colors."

R29: What are your favorite brands and shades?
L.R.: "Um...it’s kind of a secret, for now."

R29: Are you going to do lipsticks next?
L.R.: "I don’t know [laughs]. I should! I only like to make things that I would use. Like, I would never make a foundation."

COURTESY OF PROJECT MM/ANNE MEHNKE.

R29: You've said you have tried injectables, but they weren't for you. What do you think about all the girls using them in their teens and 20s?
L.R.: "I find [young people getting injectables] absolutely frightening; it’s science fiction to me. You've got to grow up and see what you’re going to look like!"

R29: What was your experience?
L.R.: "Well, I was wrinkled, so I thought, This is going to be great! But I realized that, although it was done very well and no one knew (it was very subtle), one day, I looked in the mirror and I felt like I was morphing into something else. Slowly, things started looking not like myself. I hate my wrinkles; I’m not bragging about them, but I just couldn’t look at myself."

R29: Do you have any makeup tips for people who wear glasses?
L.R.: "I very rarely wear eye makeup, but I like clumpy mascara. I think the beauty of glasses is that you don’t need eye makeup if the lenses are tinted [like mine]. But, I do like to do a little eyebrow if it sticks out at the top, depending on the glasses I'm wearing."

R29: How do you create the clumpy lashes?
"I just have clumpy lashes; they grow like this [holds fingers crossed], and I always wished my lashes were perfect and gorgeous, but I never had that. So now I say, ‘Embrace it!'"

R29: What are your favorite nail polish colors?
L.R.: "I used to love white. I used to wear dead-white opaque. I love a bright red; I think it's happy, and I do love a vampy color. I think there is something kind of black-and-white-movie about it."

R29: What's the most extravagant thing you've heard your oil used for?
L.R.: "Someone once said they only use it on their feet, but I can’t tell you who it is, or I’ll get arrested! It’s a celebrity, but I’m not supposed to know."

I always wished my lashes were perfect and gorgeous, but I never had that, so now I say, ‘Embrace it!'

-LINDA RODIN

R29: How did you come up with the oil?
L.R.: "I was a stylist for years, and I was at shoots with every top model and every great makeup artist, and I would see them using all these products. Of course, I would go buy them, or I’d go to Ricky’s, and I realized I never found anything I liked, so I decided to make one. I always liked little oils: I used arnica for bruises and evening primrose when I had a rash; I love jasmine and neroli because they’re wonderful for your skin. I just decided to make one of my own, so I just mixed [11 oils] together in a coffee cup. It was a fluke. I was doing it in my bathroom, on the ledge of my sink, in a coffee mug."

R29: And now you have a cleanser! Tell me about it.
L.R.: "It’s fabulous! It’s powder, so you pour a little bit out, and the more water you use, the creamier it is, and the less water, the more exfoliating. I use it every night: I cleanse my face, use it, and after, you keep your face semi-moist and you put the oil on. It’s just a preparation for the oil."

R29: You cleanse first? So it's like an exfoliator?
L.R.: "Yes, but it doesn’t have to be, I use it very rough about twice a week and more creamy the rest of the week. You can use it however you want!"

R29: Tell me more about the holiday Kaleidoscope packaging we're here celebrating today.
L.R.: "I used to work for photographers — and I used to want to be a photographer — and I was always fascinated with gel [light filters]. I decided years ago that I was going to wrap one of my perfumes in lavender [cellophane], and I never got around to it. Then, about a year and a half ago, I decided I was going to cello-wrap everything, and I wanted it to be vibrant colors. Then, it started looking to me like a kaleidoscope."

COURTESY OF PROJECT MM/GABOR JURINA.

R29: I’ve heard that a lot of people struggle when they sell a company to the Estée Lauders of the world. Have you had a good experience? Do you still have control?
L.R.: "Yes, I have creative control! That was the key for me — I think they were smart, because I am a good demographic, and I am also a good face for it. There are things that make me nuts about a corporation, which I'd never known anything about. I think it was a learning curve for both of us, for me and them, because I had a full-time career and I made products at the same time. Now, I can’t do both."

R29: Was it difficult to give up fashion for beauty?
L.R.: "No, because I really enjoy this, and I get to dress myself. It’s easier dressing myself than any other people...I just know [what] I'm going to look good in!"

R29: Last question: What do you think the secret is to aging gracefully?
"People ask me this a lot, and I always say: There’s nothing graceful about it. You just can't believe it, almost. I look at old pictures and I think, Oh my God, I was worried about what my hair looked like? but then I think, I didn’t have any wrinkles, why was I worried about my hair? I was so cute! I think it’s hard to accept, and I think that now, with all this crazy stuff [people are doing to their faces]...I just can’t get on board. It's a little scary to me... And when I see these young girls, I just don't know what they're doing...this nipping and chopping can’t go on."

Creed's Leading Lady On Why She's All About Old Clothes

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

“There was a period growing up where my family would thrift all the time, which was annoying as a kid, especially when people are coming in the first day of school in their brand spankin’ new whatever,” actress Tessa Thompson explains as she sifts through racks of vintage dresses. “But in high school, people would be like, ‘Oh hey, what you’re wearing is really cool.’ I realized that [thrifting] was a neat thing; that I had things that were one-of-a-kind."

Thompson’s wearing a vintage mesh top and Madewell flared overalls under a Maiyet jacket, a well-worn moto tossed over her arm. Although it’s only 10 a.m., we’re already at her second stop, thanks to a morning show appearance that came with a 4 a.m. wakeup call.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

Thompson’s on a lengthy press tour for Creed, the reboot of the Rocky franchise that’s already commanding the box office and collecting Oscar buzz. And while she’s had her pick of designers to wear on the red carpet — Rodarte, Miu Miu, Altuzarra — the 32-year-old still has a deeply rooted affection for vintage clothing, which is why she’s asked to do the interview while thrifting.

Of course, Thompson is no ordinary shopping partner, so it should be expected that we’re not at any old thrift store. Instead, she picked Shareen Vintage in L.A., a “girls only” warehouse that houses hundreds of red carpet worthy vintage frocks. It’s the kind of place you have to know about to find, hidden in a commercial neighborhood between Chinatown and Dodger Stadium. Thompson has been coming here for years.

While I’m convinced that Thompson must be exhausted from her early morning, as soon as the conversation turns to the film, her eyes light up. She plays Bianca, an experimental R & B singer and the love interest of Michael B. Jordan’s character. But don’t be fooled: Bianca is no run-of-the-mill female love interest in a sports film. Thompson wouldn’t have signed on for that.

There was a period growing up where my family would thrift all the time, which was annoying as a kid, especially when people are coming in the first day of school in their brand spankin’ new whatever.

TESSA THOMPSON

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

Although Creed may seem like a departure on her résumé alongside films like Dear White People, Selma, and For Colored Girls, the film checked all the boxes for Thompson: Wunderkind director Ryan Coogler (she’d deeply admired his first film, Fruitvale Station), a complex love story in a blockbuster film, and a collaborative ethos that allowed her to write Bianca’s music for the film, a skill she developed thanks to her time spent in electro soul band, Caught A Ghost.

“We get really used to just seeing one thing on TV and movies, and it was important that Bianca was a complicated female counterpart to Michael B. Jordan’s character,” she explains. “Not to begrudge anyone who is comfortable playing the beautiful, supportive, lovely love interest...but I'm not sure that I would be that good at it [laughs]."

Not to begrudge anyone who is comfortable playing the beautiful, supportive, lovely love interest...but I'm not sure that I would be that good at it.

TESSA THOMPSON

Of course, Bianca, as the character stands today, didn't appear out of thin air. Thompson lived in Philly for two months before production began, doing her research: secretly recording girls in nail shops to master the Philly dialect, visiting concert halls where Bianca might play, and even — you guessed it — thrifting for her character.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

At this point in the day, I've successfully convinced Thompson to try on a gold lamé romper and fur jacket combination better suited for a theme party than real life — for the record, she could pull it off — but she's narrowed it down to a ladylike dress perfect for an upcoming red carpet. Of course, this is exactly why I couldn't let her head to the cash register just yet. From the fabrics to avoid buying to the best places to shop, Thompson dished on what she loves most about thrifting, and divulges a few shopping secrets.

You mentioned that you started thrifting with your parents. Do they still thrift?
“We still thrift together! My dad and I just drove cross country and all we wanted to do was stop at every Goodwill we saw, but I had to get back for work.”

Where are your favorite thrifting haunts?
“There’s an Out of The Closet in Atwater Village that I love that I live by now, so it’s perfect; I go all the time. Beacon’s Closet in New York is fantastic, because it’s easy and cheap. Shareen’s place in New York is smaller than this and really curated.”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

How would you describe the things you gravitate toward?
“I like things that are classic and understated, but I also have a side of me that loves things that are wild, so I am always trying to find a marriage between the two. I hate the idea of anything being too trendy or boxed into one space.”

It sounds like you have a lot of vintage. Where do you keep it all?
“I used to buy too much, but now I’ve gotten way more selective. For a while I bought so much that I thought I would open a store! It was right around the time that people started selling on eBay, and I was like, ‘Oh, I’ll just have a store.’ It amassed, and I would look in my closet and be like, ‘Why do I own this?’ I used to buy things and say, ‘I'm going to make it into a shirt!’ But, then I just had a bunch of projects in my closet that I never wore. I also realized that my whole closet was vintage and it just smelled weird…”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

That’s the mistake I make! Having all these vintage projects I never start…
"It’s a trap! I always think that I can change the garment, but unless it’s a simple thing — like if it fits you, but you want to shorten it, that’s simple. Vintage garment are normally so well made that if you try to futz with them, they don’t work. If you look enough, you’re going to find something that fits you perfectly.”

What other thrifting traps are easy to fall into?
“Buying too much vintage and wearing it head to toe. [Your outfit] can be vintage, but from different eras with things that are bit cleaner, to keep it in present day. But when I see people who are just too vintage, it becomes costume-y. So much of what we wear that’s relevant now is totally based on vintage stuff, so they’re made to mix. This is newly made [points to Madewell overalls], so they’re in pristine condition, which keeps it really clean, but this shirt is vintage ‘80s.”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

Let’s talk about getting rid of stuff. How do you purge?
“I have a group of girlfriends and we do a clothes swap! There are certain friends I get very excited about, because we’re relatively the same size, and they have great stuff.”

What kind of jewelry do you thrift?
“A lot of vintage rings. I got really into chokers and full neck cuffs for a while, so I got into searching for them online, mostly on Etsy. I prefer Etsy because you kind of find people who specialize in that sort of era.”

What are your rules when it comes to fabrics?
“I don’t thrift rayons or polyesters. They collect smell and are itchy, and not so great. I don’t wear fur unless it’s vintage, and I'll buy leather, fur, and suede. Then, really beautiful silks and cottons — vintage laces and cotton are the holy grail of vintage, but they’re so delicate that you have to really find them in good condition, otherwise they’re just relics that you can have around but not really wear.”

What’s the best thing you’ve ever thrifted?
“I love vintage Betsey Johnson dresses. I have four of them — they’ll never stop being wearable. I have a couple of perfect vintage slipdresses from Betsey Johnson. I also have this beautiful leather garment bag that I travel with. It’s the kind of leather that’s tanned, with roses embossed on the leather.”

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TIMOTHY SEAN O’CONNELL.

What are your thoughts on vintage shoes?
“I used to buy vintage shoes, but not pumps. They’re just not the same. Vintage boots are fantastic. I have been inspired by that sale, A Current Affair, where you can buy Issey Miyake or Céline boots from some years ago. It's all so beautifully made, and it comes back around, so if you’re a fan of a designer, you can get something by them even if you can't afford it new."

What about new clothes?
“I really like this store Mohawk General Store [in L.A.] and Sincerely, Tommy in New York. The reason I am attracted to vintage is the same reason why [I like these two stores], because you’re not going to run into someone with the same thing.”